Late Nights, Early Mornings

Marc Jacobs took over the Lexington Avenue Armory to present his spring collection — an assemblage of wacky dresses that, while too conceptual for most gals on the street, showed off his prodigious talent and vision.

At a time when women have been wearing black, opaque leggings with skirts and dresses, he took the look a step in a different direction with sheer pants (some black, others purple with cream stripes) underneath equally filmy skirts and dresses.

The evening dresses had a peculiar "Beetlejuice" quality: one-third Goth, one-third downtown, one-third cat-loving, nutty-artist girl — not exactly man bait. These deconstructed dresses took apart the form and put it all back together again, with the undies on the outside, or the skirt so sheer the undies underneath were visible. Several dresses were off-kilter, with asymmetrical hems or panels cut out.

It was a funhouse of fashion, but Mr. Jacobs once again tested the boundaries of fun — and patience. The show, scheduled for 9 p.m., started two hours late, giving celebrities like Courtney Love, Victoria Beckham, and Carmen Electra adequate time in front of the cameras. And when it did start, a theme emerged: Everything was backwards. Mr. Jacobs came out and took a bow. Then the models walked in their finale march. Then look number 56 emerged, followed by number 55, and on down the line until number one. It could have been charming — at 9:30 p.m. But by 11:00 p.m., it was too cute, too late.

If it were almost any other designer, the show would be empty: The lack of professionalism wouldn't be tolerated. But Marc Jacobs — the man, the line, the brand — is insulated by creativity. No one wants to miss out on the next big thing, which could come down the pike any given season, even if it means waiting on cold, hard bleachers to find out if this will be the collection to end all collections. (If the NFL really wanted to market football to women, it should try handing out some of those cheap plastic seat cushions at the entry to the Armory. I'd take one.)

But the week must go on. Early the next morning, many of the same models and guests were present for the Tibi collection, which is reliably realistic. Here were spring dresses that flatter women — and don't scare off men.

Designer Amy Smilovic, who is known for her prints, did not disappoint. A scarf print — depicting a colorful safari — was used for a full-length halter gown, as well as the front of a preppy cardigan. A brown-and-white floral print and a blotchy yellow-red-and-brown print stood out as well. In keeping with the season's trend toward geometry, a green fabric with cream and red narrow lines had a groovy 1970s sexiness. Ms. Smilovic further kept the flavor more hot than sweet with pieces made from a white leather covered with thorn-shaped cutouts. The collection also included Tibi's first foray into shoes, with flat sandals and high heels with strappy buckles.