Kitchen Dish

By BRET THORN
January 23, 2008

MIDTOWN PAN-ASIAN

Chop Suey is an antiquated Chinese-American dish, but it is also the name of the Renaissance Hotel Times Square's new, mostly East Asian restaurant (714 Seventh Ave., between 47th and 48th streets, 212-261-5200), which opened last week. Zak Pelaccio, best known for his Southeast Asian Meatpacking District restaurant Fatty Crab, developed the savory menu, which includes braised pork belly with crispy shrimp and sweet chili, and a lamb loin hot pot with soft tofu and black trumpet mushrooms. Will Goldfarb of Dessert Studio at Chocolat Michel Cluizel consulted on desserts. Among them are lychee bubble tea with toasted meringue of lime and rosewater. Competing with the food in the new restaurant, designed by Jordan Moser, is the up close, second-story view of Times Square.

CUPCAKE CHRONICLES

Magnolia Bakery opened an Upper West Side location (200 Columbus Ave. at 69th Street, 212-724-8101) last Saturday. The lines are as long as at the original West Village bakery, but they move faster as the newer, larger store has two cash registers. Management plans to serve breakfast at the new bakery soon, and also to start selling whole cakes there.

Old restrictions limiting the number of cupcakes that can be bought at one time have been abolished at both locations, although management advises that orders of more than a couple dozen should be made in advance. Both stores now deliver, too, but they charge for it, as they use a courier service.

DOWNTOWN FUN

Julia Jaksic has been promoted from sous chef to chef of Employees Only (510 Hudson St., between 10th and Christopher streets, 212-242-3021), and has revamped the menu with an eye to "make it really fun." That includes adding pljeskavica to the late-night menu, complete with ajvar and kajmak. She calls it a Balkan Burger, though, complete with red pepper paste and cream cheese spread. It is served on a yeasty pita she gets from a bakery in Astoria.

SURF AND TURF

Former Picholine chef de cuisine Craig Hopson has rolled out his first menu as the chef of One If By Land, Two If By Sea (17 Barrow St., between Bleecker and 4th streets, 212-255-8649). Winter entrées include venison saddle with caraway chestnut cake, pears, and celery hearts; scallops with porcini, foie gras, and a hot and sour mushroom broth, and black sea bass with roasted grapes and preserved lemon yogurt.

LEAVING HER POSTO

Nicole Kaplan has left her job as executive pastry chef of Del Posto to be pastry chef of the Plaza, which is scheduled to open as a hotel and condominium complex in March.

FOR ALL AGES

Two 'wichcraft locations (60 E. 8th St. at Broadway, and 397 Greenwich St. at Beach Street) are now serving wine ($6.50–$7.75) and beer ($4–$5).

In addition, children's menus are available at all 10 stores. Peanut butter with seasonal jam or grilled 6-month-old Vermont cheddar sandwiches can be had with fruit salad and milk or orange juice for $6.50.

Mr. Thorn is food editor of Nation's Restaurant News. He maintains nrnfoodwriter.blogspot.com.