Lunch at the L'Atelier

At the counter today at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon -- designed to give diners a view of the meticulous preparations going on in the kitchen -- Charlie Rose, positioned two seats down from me, had passionfruit iced tea, a small plate of crabmeat served between two slices of avocado, and a plate of pasta. In other words, a healthy meal, and certainly a healthier meal than mine! Gearing up for a week of the finest French cuisine in Paris, where I'm headed Monday to cover the Biennale des Antiquaires, I went all out with a shot glass portion of smooth gazpacho garnished with a garlic crouton, an almond slice, and a shred of basil ("the best in the city," the waiter said); immaculately deboned frog's legs (accompanied by a finger bowl), and caramelized quail served with mashed potatoes. Those ladies who lunch regularly haven't yet discovered this spot, judging from their scant number today.