Advice by the Glass

Jeffrey Luftig of the Biltmore Room keeps his sommelier credentials in perspective."Someone who tells you they are an expert in wine is completely full of crap," Mr. Luftig said. Humble and sincere with a whiff of wine-buttressed lunacy, Mr. Luftig is full of more than just flowery hot air. He brings genuine enthusiasm to the table, rather than pretense. In his words: an "under-control maniac."

Mr. Luftig came to the Biltmore Room 10 months ago as general manager and added the sommelier title soon thereafter. He was previously wine director at Felidia and Washington Park."What guides me here is what we do in the kitchen," he said, tipping his hat to the globally infused menu of chef Gary Robins. The flavors are so pronounced, he explained, that the accompanying wine selections need acidity and flavor to complement properly.

When it comes to tableside wine talk, he's not a pusher."The bottom line is, it's your dime - and it's food,and it's wine,"he said, while sitting in the dining room framed by marble walls salvaged from Midtown's storied Biltmore Hotel. "You want to drink a cabernet with a tataki of tuna, go ahead," he said."I'm not going to chastise you for doing it."

Still, guests would be most wise to trust his recommendations. He approaches wine selections with openness and an approachable palate. As a lobster bisque arrived, he dashed off and returned with a pinot gris that perfectly nurtured the bisque's strong finish. His wine list forces nothing and offers plenty of surprises - and price points - for easy discovery. And he doesn't hold back. He recently talked a guest out of a four-figure bottle of red that he deemed unworthy.

Sometimes in chatting about wine, he can run off course.When asked an amateur question - how best to remember remarkable vintages - Mr. Luftig mentioned the celebrated Piedmont whites of 1990. "While I don't disagree - they weren't '91 or '92 or '93, which were terrible vintages - I love '89 more." Mr. Luftig explained that he prefers tannin and structure, rather than a "fruit bomb." Broad vintage generalizations, in his view, are inadequate. Most important, he tries to read guests' personal preferences while pairing.

Sixteen years ago, Mr. Luftig owned a restaurant that failed; he admits this without a dash of excuse. He cited an important reason: He knew nothing about wine. So he enrolled in the Sommelier Society's Certificate Course. He has been reading about, talking, studying, and tasting wine ever since. "The more you know, the less you know."