The Best Thing Right Now…

Bubble tea, which originated in Taiwan, has long been available in the city in sickly sweet coconut, strawberry or mango versions. But those who really love the beverage, with its syrupy tang and black tapioca pearls, should head to Teariffic. Rather than infuse the tea with a single fruity note, as most purveyors do, the café offers a menu of more complex concoctions ($2.45 and up).

Reminiscent of sweet lemonade, the Blue Coral is a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds. The mix of lemon juice and honey is sunshine yellow with a shock of bright blue on the bottom, thanks to the addition of non-alcoholic Curaçao. The Black Jack is murky purple, a blend of strawberry, lemon, Curaçao, and several drops of honey. The lime-green Verdant Cooler combines green tea, passion fruit, and peppermint.

For an extra 40 cents, tapioca "bubbles" can be dropped into the drink; any tea without them is like soda devoid of fizz. For a truly exotic elixir, request mixed jelly, Mata de coco, wheat germ, or even aloe vera.

Teariffic (51 Mott St., between Bayard and Pell, 212-393-9009).