Beyond The Familiar

In a rare moment of concision, the novelist and critic Henry James observed, "There are two kinds of taste, the taste for emotions of surprise, and the taste for emotions of recognition."

Wine writers everywhere know — let's be honest here — that most wine buyers seek the familiar. They have a Jamesian taste for "emotions of recognition." And who can blame anyone for seeking "comfort wines"?

When you glance at the wines to follow, your eyes will likely glaze over. The names seem so unfamiliar, so esoteric. Chances are you'll say, "I'd like an emotion of recognition, thank you very much."

Nevertheless, hear me out. These wines are worth pursuing. They will bring you the exquisite — dare I say Jamesian? — pleasure that comes from the delight of a surprise. They're that good.

HERE'S THE (SURPRISING) DEAL

Királyudvar Tokaji Sec 2005 — You know you're on to something special indeed when you're dining at Gramercy Tavern and owner Danny Meyer stops by your table, spies the dry white wine you're drinking, and quietly says, "That's probably the best buy on the entire list."

I didn't ask Mr. Meyer if Királyudvar Tokaji Sec 2005 was flying off Gramercy Tavern's superb wine list — but I rather doubt it. (See Henry James above for the likely reason.)

After all, not only is dry Tokaji largely unknown, but in fact, it's also entirely new. In all of the many centuries that the furmint grape variety has been grown in Hungary's legendary Tokaj district, the producers there never created a dry wine until the end of the 20th century. It's that new.

Királyudvar Winery is a new creation as well, the work of New Yorker Anthony Hwang. Mr. Hwang keeps a very low profile in the wine world, but I've met few winery owners more seriously committed to creating great wine than he. Mr. Hwang also owns the famous French estate Domaine Huet in the Loire Valley.

Revived in 1997, Királyudvar — "the king's court" — supplied the Hungarian royal court as far back as the 11th century. Mr. Hwang rebuilt the 16th-century winery, and today owns 185 acres of vines from which he makes several stunning, traditionally rich Tokaj wines in addition to the brand-new dry version.

The 2005 vintage of Királyudvar Tokaji Sec is the inaugural bottling of this exceptional dry Tokaj. Redolent of scents of hay, lemon zest, and minerals, this dry white wine is a blend of furmint (70%) and another indigenous white grape in Tokaj called hárslevelu (30%). It's worth noting that the wine has just 12.3% alcohol. Királyudvar Tokaji Sec 2005 is like no other dry white wine you or I have ever tasted. It reminds one of white Burgundy with its rich, thick texture and exceptional finesse — yet it's nothing like chardonnay in taste. It's more individual and particular than that.

It was also superb with Gramercy Tavern's butternut squash risotto, by the way.

If you seek out one vinous "emotion of surprise" this year, this is the one. At $27, it can be found at Chambers Street Wines in Manhattan and at Smith & Vine in Brooklyn, among others.

Nero d'Avola "Rossojbleo" 2006, Gulfi — In 1996, owner Vito Catania decided to make wine from grapes he previously sold to others. He also sought vineyard sites in southeastern Sicily, eventually acquiring 225 acres, some of which were previously planted with vines. Other sections were newly planted by Mr. Catania. Significantly, these new vines were planted to a high density for the express purpose of low yields.

Gulfi represents what can only be described as a startlingly new Sicily, in its freshness, bright acidity, and pure delineated flavors. The great red grape of Sicily is nero d'Avola. But until now, it's never received the kind of care and craftsmanship it deserves. Gulfi delivers in spades, offering six different nero d'Avola wines — all labeled with tongue-twisting dialect names.

The bottling called Rossojbleo is Gulfi's drink-now nero d'Avola, which the winery modestly presents as a "simple" wine. Actually, it's more and better than that. This is a lovely, intense yet supple red that goes down smoothly and is meant to accompany the likes of a good, simple pizza, a plate of pasta, or a good hamburger. But what it really tells you is how fine nero d'Avola can be. This is no ordinary red. The wine retails for $14.99, and merchants include Astor Wines and Chambers Street Wines, among others.