Kitchen Dish

TAKE TWO

Barbara and Paul Abramsky have completely reworked their Avondale Deli into Avon Bistro (155 E. 52nd St., between Lexington and Third avenues, 212-752-9587). The diner décor and knickknacks have been replaced by mostly blond wood and a sleek design. Kevin Cahill, a former chef for caterer-to-the-stars Serena Bass, is winning praise from neighborhood folk for his braised pork belly with black currant pancakes. Classic cassoulet is another highlight of the winter menu.

AMERICAN BOOT

At Olana (72 Madison Ave., between 27th and 2 8th streets, 212-725-4900), named for the historic site in upstate New York, chef Al Di Meglio, formerly of Osteria del Circo, is using local produce to serve American food with an Italian accent. Opening menu items include grilled Berkshire pork loin with chanterelles, herbed new potatoes, cider-glazed red onion, and quince purée, as well as grilled whole turbot for two with roasted bronze fennel, stuffed baby onions, and red bliss potatoes.

FLAVOR FUSION

Chef Jorge Rodriguez is fusing Argentine and Spanish culinary traditions at La Zarza (116 First Ave. at 7th Street, 212-477-1111) with items such as almond-stuffed dates wrapped in Argentine bacon, and Patagonian rib eye steak with patatas bravas and two chimichurris. Ceviche is neither Spanish nor Argentine, but three types are on the menu, too.

NIGHT OWLS

People looking for weekend late-night snacks of rabbit croquettes or salt cod fritters can head to Allen & Delancey (115 Allen St., obviously at Delancey Street, 212-253-5400), which has launched a weekend late-night menu, available Thursday through Saturday from midnight to 2 a.m. Charcuterie, eggplant parmigiana, a cheese plate, and an array of desserts also are on the menu.

LUNCH MUNCH Just up the street, Palà (198 Allen St., between Houston and Stanton streets, 212-614-7252) is extending its hours to include lunch Monday through Friday as of March 1, serving its version of pizza with a high-tech, organic, and slow-rising dough, now available without gluten. Lactose-free soy mozzarella also is an option.

GOOD CAUSES

On Sunday nights, both units of the Mermaid Inn (96 Second Ave., between 5th and 6th streets, 212-674-5870, and 568 Amsterdam Ave., between 87th and 88th streets, 212-799-7400),are donating 5% of total sales to kiva.org, a nonprofit organization that coordinates small loans for low-income entrepreneurs in developing countries.

Mr. Thorn is food editor of Nation's Restaurant News. He maintains nrnfoodwriter.blogspot.com.