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Kitchen Dish: Archipelago, the Grand Tier, and Ellis

By BRET THORN | September 24, 2008

ISLANDS IN THE STREAM Archipelago (333 Hudson St., between Vandam and Charlton streets, 212-243-3345) has its soft opening this week, starting tomorrow, for dinner only. The food is by chef Hisanobu Osaka, formerly of Morimoto, and is mostly nontraditional Japanese, but influences come from all over the place, such as France (seared duck breast and confit leg with orange-cumin glazed baby carrots, and shiitake duck jus) and Peru (squid seviche with red onions, pickled cherry tomato, nori, and citrus). Entrées range from $20 to $30. Rice and noodle dishes are $10.

UNTIL THE FAT LADY EATS The Grand Tier Restaurant opened yesterday at the Metropolitan Opera House (150 W. 65th St., between Broadway and Amsterdam Avenue, 212-799-3400). Umberto Montano of Alle Murate in Florence, Italy, consulted on the food, which is being cooked by Jeff Raider, who worked at the Sea Grill with chef Ed Brown. Menu items include chicken stuffed with figs and prosciutto, and pasta with red snapper ragout. Guests can pre-order food for intermission.

SOUTH SLOPE EATS Ellis (627 Fifth Ave., between 17th and 18th streets, Park Slope, Brooklyn, 718-768-0532) officially opened last Friday, serving Southwestern food that includes Indian fry bread and rattlesnake skewers, as well as grilled shrimp and top-shelf tequila.

DUMPLINGS ON THE RUN The Rickshaw Dumpling Bar outpost near New York University (53 E. 8th St., between Broadway and University Place, 212-461-1750) is experimenting with delivery between Sixth and Second avenues and between 14th and Houston streets from 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., with a $15 per-order minimum.

CALL AHEAD Somehow, the phone number at Applewood (501 11th St., between Seventh and Eighth avenues, Park Slope, Brooklyn) was given away by its service provider. Its new numbers are 718-788-1014 and 718-788-1810.

Mr. Thorn is food editor of Nation's Restaurant News. He maintains nrnfoodwriter.blogspot.com.


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