Luxe Life
Thursday at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week started off with a luxurious morning. Though there was not a bon-bon in sight, there was fur in a wild, covetable assortment of styles. And for those interested in the foundation of fashion, there were fabric blends that stole the show.
At J. Mendel, the pelts were shown with a high-gloss, refined air. Several pieces incorporated wool and fur panels onto the same garment. One black wool coat came with giant brown mink sleeves; a gray wool dress was shown with silver fox trim. The gray shearling coats or black broadtail jackets were elegant enough to accompany the line's exquisite evening gowns.
The gowns themselves were divine. Several flowing silk chiffon dresses were shown with portions of the skirts pleated. Though black dominated, one champagne satin gown with a low back was a welcome change. Several gowns were shown with fur pieces that were little more than hoods or coverlets of the shoulders, but they gave the eveningwear an extra dollop of luxe.
Things were more artistic at Malo, where the scale was off the charts. The first looks down the runway were huge shaggy coats that resembled dreadlocks or looseweave carpets rather than anything one might wear down the street. These coats — and several the heavy furs that made the models practically disappear — will look fantastic in magazine spreads. There were plenty of alluring, cozy sweaters to wear, such as a wide cardigan with a wide, open shawl collar or a cropped turtleneck with a chevron design. Sexy sweater dresses are a staple for this Italian label, and they held much more appeal here than the mannish suits and trousers, which had a loose, androgynous look. Still, what was fascinating here was the knitwear and the fabrics; though it is untouchable on the runway, it beckons the eye — and the hand.
There was a mixed mood at Vera Wang, where fur again made a strong showing. A Russian theme was present, with sparkling insignias on shoulders and big headscarves that made the models look like improbably skinny babushkas. References to a "Bolshevik pant" or a "dirndl skirt" added to the Russian inspiration mentioned in the program notes, but the individual pieces added up to more of a modern look: dark layers, asymmetry, and contrasting pieces in lighter fabric. This collection provides a smooth liaison between the flattering and the artistic. The best in the pelt division was an oversize short-sleeve black fur vest and a brown shearling vest with pieces of beaver mixed in.
At Calvin Klein, fur took a back seat to sculptural forms and shimmering fabrics. Dresses and skirts hugged the body, while wide coats tended to envelope the tall models in a tulip or balloon shape. The color palette stayed close to gray and black. One excellent diversion was a gorgeous marble print that sent gray, curving lines all over white wool felt dresses.
Though so many dresses and some suits directed attention to the hourglass figures of the girls, there were quite a few pieces that would cause a gal with a more average shape some trouble.
Several dresses and skirts had extra horizontal folds, sometimes with pockets, across the abdomen. One dress had pleats in the back, which emphasized the derrière. All of which added up to an unnecessary emphasis on the tummy and hips. The only solution: covering up with a big fur coat.
Again, the fabrics here drew the eye. A silk stretch fabric was used for a black dolman sleeve jacket, and a silk waffle knit pencil skirt made for a smooth fit. And if a simple dress made from a hightech fabric is your thing, this collection is for you.
Ready for Some Global Climate Change
Fur has been the one, perhaps only, major trend across the board. And fur coats are just the beginning. This was a week of vests, zippered pullovers, mini dresses, and tunics, as well as trim — even trim that peeked out from a layered skirt. And the shapes are not shy: In some collections, the coats were designed on a scale that looked better suited to Shaq than ladies who lunch.
