Romancing the Future of Fashion

PARIS — Marc Jacobs's fall 2008 collection for Louis Vuitton swayed beautifully between the contrasting poles of supreme romance and sleek futurism. At yesterday's show, a strong sense of classicism was represented by tea-length skirts, formfitting knee-length dresses with wide décolletage, and simple sweaters. But the future was bright, especially with a few of the coats. One light tan coat was cut close to the body, then flared out at the waist with a full handkerchief skirt. Skirts had wavy sculptural details that recalled Frank Gehry's architecture, and a sparkly black evening dress was anything but conventional with its high neck and off-kilter cut. Shoulders were wide and padded — even in sweaters. The one unfortunate aspect of the collection was the shape of the pants: Wide at the hips, they tapered to the ankle in a tulip shape that would look good on few women.

Though the palette was soft — from black to gray and muted shades of green, pink, and soft blue — the varied shapes offered an enormous range of clothing to appraise. Some looks suggested the divine Grace Kelly, while others charted a course to modernism with seriousness and verve. That all this was deftly integrated into one collection speaks to the broad vision that Mr. Jacobs brings to the table.

Last season at Hermès, colors of India were a direct inspiration for designer Jean Paul Gaultier, but this season's collection and presentation hinted at a broader look at Asia and the Silk Road, especially in its colder climes. The runway for the show was an Oriental rug that stretched 60 yards long and traveled up the backdrop past the rafters, making for a dramatic setting. The red carpet with gold medallions set a rich tone in the giant tent that Hermès erected near the Eiffel Tower.

On this lush carpet Saturday walked models wearing a collection that emphasized luxurious outerwear. Shearling, in strong Hermès orange, came in a perky swing coat. A black leather trench was presented with the addition of a cape hanging from the back, where a simple yoke would be. A short, fitted jacket in tan leather was worn with a bag to match.

But there was a softness to this collection as well. Scarf print skirts were loose with long fringe. Chiffon dresses and tunics were accented with rope belts that ended in tassels. An elegant gown of brown chiffon was accented with a wide brown leather belt. The show closed with variations on tuxedo dressing that included velvet pants paired with a satin jacket and a white scarf. Many of the looks incorporated wide swaths of fabric scarves thrown over the shoulders and knit skullcaps. If this collection was intended for winter in the Himalayas, it's going to be a blissfully refined journey.

It was a fashion fun ride Friday at Chanel, where upon entering a mini stadium within the Grand Palais, guests caught sight of a gold merry-go-round . The two-level structure was decorated with oversize versions of iconic Chanel pieces: a two-tone pump, a quilted bag, beaded cuffs, bows, and hats. After each model walked the perimeter of the stage, she took a pose on the structure.

In the presentation and in the clothes, it was a celebration of signature Chanel — with a gentle spin. Suits were a major presence, unlike in recent seasons that have emphasized everything but. Here were familiar tweed fabrics with their braided trim, noticeably modernized. On some suits, portions of fabric were made to appear worn out or frayed. A long slim skirt of tan tweed was topped with a cream sweater that made for a sumptuous, yet sporty look.

Ripped denim miniskirts worn with oversize black sweaters contributed to a youthful, college-student style. On almost all the models, the two-tone legwear stood out as a must-have — and for other retailers, a must-follow. The tights were nude or patterned in the front and solid black on the calf and back of the thigh. High-heel spectators with Mary-Jane straps brought home the traditions of the house.

What's captured in this collection is a definitive sense of modern Frenchness: elegant, classic, yet undeniably alluring. It's as if designer Karl Lagerfeld decided to toss trends to the wind and really dig into the purity of Chanel — a concept that he himself has polished and nurtured.

At Chloé, creative director Paulo Melim Andersson offered up a glittering collection of dresses that had flounce and flow. Though Saturday's show started off with black pieces — including a sheer, decorated dress that hung like a fitted tunic — a number of prints gave the show a bouquet of color. A green, purple, and yellow print, and a white fabric with small purple designs were both used for attractive, feminine dresses. Several skirts had some cheeky swing: Layers of fabric underneath gave the short skirts bounce, while the embellishments gave them sparkle. It would oversimplify things to say that the dresses were pretty, but indeed, they were. Pretty, yet evocative of a dreamy mood — with a slightly discontented air created by the razor-sharp toes on the high heels and booties.

Vanessa Bruno conjured up her own mix of carefree, yet contemplative elegance yesterday. Long skirts were sharp and long dresses in silk fabrics were draped for maximum flutter. Cropped furs — especially a gray Mongolian lamb jacket — stood out with their modern shape and mixed materials. The collection's palette was soft and supple in white, gray, light pink, and moss. Of the few adornments were long fringes on scarves, wave shapes on the pockets of pants, and a geometric chain-link design on a stunning dress of long, blue silk. These clothes are exceptionally well suited to that only-in-Manhattan problem: How do you go from downtown to uptown and fit in all the way? Vanessa Bruno.

Designer Agnès B. provided an enormous range of styles, all of which belie any need to pay heed to trends. The message of Friday's show was: If you like it, it works. Menswear-inspired suits were present, as were several long sweater-dresses and cardigans. A black coat with silver circles stood out as what could be an international hit, and two sleeveless dresses in brown velvet seemed simply irresistible for their rich color. A few evening looks featured sheer layers and silver sequin appliqué. The show closed, as few seem to anymore, with a wedding dress. The long train was carried by a little girl, behind whom a violinist walked and played.