Strong Statements

Vera Wang created a visually stunning collection for fall 2008. It's filled with bold color, striking prints, asymmetrical gathers, and off-kilter draping. These clothes have a lot to say — and the woman inside these statement pieces needs to have as much (or more) on her mind. It's a tricky balance for brands with design-centric devotees: What happens when a dress has more personality than the woman in it? To be sure, there are perfect matches to be made. But this collection teetered on the line between artsy-beautiful and difficult-to-wear. Prints were strong; they included a purple rose on black jacquard fabric used for a loose bed jacket, and a yellow leaf print, with a Japanese influence, from which several pieces were cut. An orange bouclé skirt was right for the runway, but it could be blinding on the streets. Several long dresses with scrunched, unkempt layers or gathers had the potential to take over any conversation. But the color was more restrained on a bustier dress in charcoal wool with a swath of maroon silk chiffon peeking out from the top of the neckline.

Likewise, Francisco Costa's collection for Calvin Klein was full of suits and dresses with minimalist curves. Thick wools and pure felts created a rich texture. High necks and accents on pockets lent a futuristic air. On the right woman, these perfectly sculpted pieces will work seamlessly into her luxury condo outfitted with contemporary art and track lighting. But a woman with the slightest wallflower tendency could wind up looking like a Quaker — or a Trekkie. Mr. Costa's evening-wear, however, was more welcoming: His sparkling gown with floor-length knife pleats and deep necklines could flatter anyone.

At 3.1 Phillip Lim, the collection offered something for a broad spectrum of women and a broad spectrum of life: days at the office, walks in the park, evenings out, meeting the parents. If you were to buy the entire collection, you may not need another outfit ever again. From bouclé sweater coats to bronze matelasse trench coats, outerwear was strong. Boy-cut blazers and vests were borrowed from menswear, but the overall theme was a sense of cool confidence that reigned supreme.

Though Mr. Lim's clients are likely to be every bit as design-oriented as those of Calvin Klein or Vera Wang, his pieces suggest no need for self-consciousness.