Women's Wear On A Wild Ride
PARIS — Designer Ivana Omazic moved Celine into more aggressively design-oriented territory this season. The show yesterday started off with pieces that were basic in color — a gray so light it appeared white — and sculpted in shape. But things got more complicated quickly: Long jackets with vests overtop or boleros in different fabrics were worn together with what appeared to be sewn-in backpacks. Motorcycle jackets gave this couture sportswear line its sexy speed, and a trench in a metallic blue gave the impression that Ms. Omazic is taking the classics for a ride.
A series of dresses with asymmetrical hems looked tricky to wear: The full, A-line skirts could take over a woman's shape. But when the designer herself came out for her bow, she was wearing a skirt similar to what was on the runway with a leather jacket — and it made for an ensemble that rocked. Evening looks were long, billowing, and silky, though they were paired with tough-girl jackets on top. Handbags varied from small clutches to layered envelope bags with a large Celine medallion on the front. Ms. Omazic made a significant statement with this collection: Not only was there more design, there was more woman, more sport, more "grrr."
At Barbara Bui, the mood was a mix of vulnerable, wicked, and alluring. Heavy eyeliner helped create that mood, but more so, it was the silhouette: Yesterday, several looks featured slim pants that were cropped just above the ankle — all the better to see the ultra-high heels with ankle cuffs. On top were light shirts and camisoles worn with fur jackets that were big at the shoulders, but stopped before the waist. There were dresses too: A swingy green, fringe fabric was used for a dress and skirt. A brown leather mini suggested a hippie gone rock star. The handbags here lived up to the Barbara Bui renown: Large crocodile frame bags came in brown, purple, and green — each one more covetable than the next. Ms Bui also continued the patchwork leather bags that she introduced in spring, some slim and square, others large and in charge. Once again, Hussein Chalayan proved himself a master of the mix: In one show, he can send out wild, experimental pieces balanced against what looks like an equal number of clothes that are street legal.
For his fall 2008 collection, presented Wednesday, both sides of the equation were based on the theme of evolution. The most direct evidence of that theme was found in dresses that emphasized the mineral world. A necklace made of softball-size stones adorned a long black dress. Rows of smaller rocks and Swarovski crystals made for the straps on other dresses and as embellishments on one loose, short dress. A print of repeated fossils was used for flowing silk pieces in varied shapes.
The winner in the conceptual category was a group of draped black dresses that were bunched and tied in ways that made the models look as if they were carrying babies on their hips or chests. The show closed with two models wearing contraptions that represented the universe: Each model wore a black bodysuit with a wide belt that supported a solar system of black wires and tiny, moving lights.
On the wearable side were jackets in checked-blue knit fabrics, sheath dresses in metallic blues and greens, as well as a series of black pieces covered with diamond-shaped seaming. A sporty silver jacket had the look of a sweat suit in which the pants had been tossed in favor of a slim skirt. A pixilated red fabric was fashioned into several pieces, including a bubble-hem skirt. All in all, the collection provided a shot of enthusiastic creativity — applied to clothes that can be worn by ordinary folk and that delight the imagination.
