There’s a chilly air of restraint in store for fall 2006. High-neck, prim blouses with sharp trousers showed up repeatedly in the first shows at Olympus Fashion Week. Though there will always be plenty of evening dresses to show some skin, there’s also a covered-up element emerging, one with a piercing quality that stops just short of femme fatale.

Leading this trend was Tracy Reese, who showed one of the most successful collections of the weekend. Inspired in part by Katharine Hepburn, Ms. Reese sent out numerous looks with the high necklines and tight waists that made Hepburn smolder in movies such as “Woman of the Year.” One black cocktail dress with diagonal pleats on the bodice had particular sizzle. Not everything was so structured here, though: A light jersey frock had swing, and a few pieces in hot pink florals brought back the Tracy Reese we know and love.

Ashleigh Verrier’s looks for fall, presented at the St. Regis, kept up her aesthetic of the edgy gamine. Fabrics were focused tightly on silks and velvets; high-neck silk blouses lent an air of formality. A camel cashmere houndstooth jacket and camel corduroy cropped pants stood out for daytime glamour. Styled with models looking a bit like 10-year-old beauty queens, the clothes suggested duality: These pieces are for women with a vulnerable side – without overtly flirtatious frills.

The feel was less soft at Yigal Azrouel, where a woman with a serious, slightly dark mien might feel more at home. A beautiful gown of flowing plum silk had a sharp “V” neckline. Taupe and black silk chiffon made for a two-tone dress with pin tucking – accented by a wide grosgrain ribbon at the waist. While dresses are still a strength for this brand, the collection ranged into greater territory than in previous seasons. A dramatic smoking suit with velvet labels and piping was a step in a masculine direction. And a leather stitched cardigan over a menswear inspired shirt looked dramatic.

At Kenneth Cole, the look for fall – as it was for spring – is more sophisticated and elegant than in previous years. His looks contributed to a sense of “grownup” sexiness. A gray wool suit jacket had a tough, modernist structure with tight, skinny pants. A violet velvet wrap dress had a beautiful shimmer that captured the light in a dazzling way. One brown cashmere turtleneck was simple, but alluring – though not quite as much as a short, backless number. Among the more casual looks, a dark green wool cardigan with a tie looked wonderfully comfortable.

At Y & Kei, a lavender chiffon and lace blouse recalled the wannabe Victorian days of Jessica McClintock. Metallics mixed with blacks ruled this collection, though touches of color – such as a gown of gorgeous lavender lace over white – added levity. Color was especially prominent at Twinkle, where funky sweaters and knitwear dominated. DKNY offered playful miniskirts that had a high school, rock ‘n’ roll edge. Several colorful dresses with sweet scoop necks and gathers seemed in keeping with a toned-down sexuality.

At Tocca, design ranged far and wide. There were Oliver Twist-inspired tweed coats, jackets, and pants that seemed removed from the ethnic embroidered skirts – one of which featured a print transposed from a Turkish carpet. As a whole, Tocca’s bid for fall is rich with detail, accents, and unusual mixes of fabrics, some heavy. The mix works well most of the time, but it can seem overdone. The many layers give pieces a look of novelty – and novelties can wear off.