42 New York Restaurants Are Stars of Michelin Guide

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The New York Sun

Two days before Zagat is to announce the results of its 2008 survey, in which diners weigh in on the cuisine, service, and décor of city establishments, the venerable Michelin dining guide released its New York edition — with 42 city restaurants receiving starred reviews.

The executive chef at Oceana, Ben Pollinger, said he was “elated” by the news that the East 54th Street restaurant received a star in Michelin, but he is just as excited by the knowledge that next year’s Zagat gives the seafood eatery a numerical rating that designates its cuisine as “extraordinary to perfection.” Mr. Pollinger, who joined Oceana about a year ago, said a star from anonymous Michelin inspectors is an honor, but accolades from everyday diners, “At the end of the day, that’s what’s most meaningful.”

For Anthos on West 52nd Street, a newcomer to the New York dining scene, chef Michael Psilakis said a starred Michelin review validates the restaurant’s haute Greek concept. “It shows people — not only here in New York, but also in Europe — that Greek food can be done on a fine dining level,” he said.

Mr. Psilakis said the restaurant’s write-up in the forthcoming Zagat’s survey rating in the “very good to excellent” category is just as important a distinction in this city.

Yesterday, the focus was on high-minded Michelin, often touted by chefs as the world’s preeminent dining guide. Jean-Georges, situated near Columbus Circle, and Le Bernardin and Per Se, both in Midtown West, received three stars, the book’s highest honor. It denotes “exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey,” placing the establishments in an elite culinary echelon, comprising only 56 restaurants worldwide.

Twenty-six of those three-star restaurants are in France, where Michelin has been publishing guides since 1900. Nine of those top-tier restaurants are situated in Paris.

In its first year of eligibility, Gordon Ramsay at the London in Midtown West received two stars, denoting “excellent cooking, worth a detour.” Five other restaurants also received two stars, including Picholine on the Upper West Side, which was upgraded by one star from last year’s guide. Another 33 restaurants in Manhattan, Brooklyn, and Queens were awarded one star, designating them as a “very good” restaurant in their categories.

The news from Michelin wasn’t all good: Tom Colicchio’s Craft restaurant on East 19th Street lost its star this year.

Like the Academy Awards, where the nomination is an honor in itself, even an unstarred write-up carries more than a modicum of prestige. The vast majority of the 619 establishments written up in the guide did not get a star. For more than 100 of the restaurants, it was the first time they received a nod from Michelin.

In an interview, the director of the Michelin Guide, Jean-Luc Naret, said that in recent years, New York’s dining scene has become more sophisticated and, at the same time, more casual — attracting top chefs, who open both high-end restaurants and respectable bistros in the city. Mr. Naret touted the diversity of cuisine available New York City, and touted its bevy of young, talented chefs. “It’s a fantastic place to dine — at all different price levels,” he said.

Indeed, this year’s guide includes 52 restaurants designated as good values by the inspectors. At these so-called Bib Gormand selections, a dish, a glass of wine, and a dessert can be had for $40 or less.

The key to receiving Michelin honors, Mr. Naret said, is consistency. “It’s about making sure things are right every single day — even when the chef is not in the kitchen,” he said.

In America, Michelin publishes dining guides for New York and San Francisco, and the company announced yesterday that dining guides to Las Vegas and Los Angeles would make their debut next month. The $16.95 Michelin Guide hits bookstores tomorrow, the same day Zagat’s releases its 2008 dining guide, which retails for $15.95.


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