Springtime in New York is all about cautious optimism. It’s time to put away the winter coat but not yet time to step out without one: Just as the sun shines brightly, a cold wind can suddenly blast through the spring clothes you pulled out of the closet too soon. The answer to staying warm and stylish is the lightweight coat.

While this spring portends voluminous dresses, jackets, and sleeves of bubbling proportion, the classic trench has by no means fallen out of favor. By using nipped waists, open collars, or shocking silver fabrics, designers have updated the traditional, sexy look. Celine’s spring collection was loaded with variations on the theme. A sexy summer look from Bill Blass was shown on the runway with a sensible layer overtop. And at Michael Kors the tan staple was shown with a wide black belt. In all its variations, the trench remains a chic solution to combating New York’s varied temperatures.