Marc Jacobs Reinterprets American Life

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The New York Sun

At the Marc Jacobs show on Monday night, the zippy, shifting strains of Gershwin’s “Rhapsody in Blue” made for a stirring soundtrack. And the music was an astute choice. While Gershwin’s score captures the bustle and glory of New York, Mr. Jacobs’s clothes seem to celebrate the people who made not just this city, but America as a whole: immigrants.

Model after model walked the runway like a live parade of American Girl dolls; there were historical references to the vast variety of clothing worn by new arrivals in different parts of the country during different time periods. Full skirts tiered with a ruffle that wrapped around the body evoked everything from Russian immigrants to prairie women to suffragettes. Little flat hats on some models added a hint of the Gibson Girl, while scarves tied around the heads of others suggested the hard work of the women who served those girls.

The collection also evoked costumes from some of the best works for the American stage. Jerome Robbins’s 1944 masterpiece “Fancy Free” included costumes for the female dancers — full skirts, brightly colored tops that accentuate the waist, and purses with long straps — that appeared to be referenced here. Meredith Willson’s 1957 “The Music Man” contributed a certain Marian the Librarian look, too.

Several pieces made a visual link to Asian attire, by way of America: Long, belted tunics with gold and bronze appliqués had a Chinatown flair. And the islands were not neglected: Sundresses in bold yellow, purple, or blue had a breezy feel.

The exuberance with which Mr. Jacobs twisted these vastly different strands of design into something so perfectly modern is ultimately the most exciting aspect of this collection. But also, the individual pieces looked wearable and sellable. The plaid, button-down shirts are poised for trendy status. And several of the evening gowns were surely reserved by the fashion magazine editors and celebrity stylists. There were pink Grecian gowns that looked red-carpet ready. And a batch of gowns combined black fabric panels with a gold-green fabric that shimmered like an Oscar. What’s more, the accessories in this collection were so strong that they are probably already sold out: The piled-on bangle bracelets, the chunky necklaces, the ankle-tie shoes, and the leopard fabric drawstring bags were all hits.

Mr. Jacobs has created exciting collections before, and he knows how to manage his buzz. But this collection represents a designer truly at the top of his game.


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