Only the sketchbooks were missing.

Wednesday night at Anna Sui, the runway resembled a SoHo intersection full of artschool undergraduates in smart smocks, thick wool capes, and heavy gold medallions. The designer splashed flowing smocked dresses with robin’s egg prints in deep purple and ivory and layered them over wool turtlenecks, crocheted vests in brown and hooded, matte-black anoraks. The latter had a street look that distinguished them from their 1970s references.

Jumpers and short cardigans featured embroidered details or unexpected touches such as peacockblue safety pins and ostrich feathers.

Ms. Sui incorporated elegant pieces that could be easily separated from the flamboyant ensembles: a crepede-chine blouse with newspaper print, a blouse of goldflecked chiffon, and a long, chunky cable knit sweater, for instance. The collection also ventured into a rich color palette, mixing golden oranges, aqua, plum, and chocolate.

Vivienne Tam worked with similar hues, but in smokier plum, blue, and charcoal tones. Column dresses that featured red piping or intricate cutout details along the bodice were a standout in the collection. The silhouette of the traditional Chinese cheongsam dress also figured prominently. According to show notes, the collection was inspired by French designer Paul Poiret, who will be the subject of an exhibit opening in May at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. A black-and-white velvet dress with Buddha print and tie front was a modern take on Poiret. Still, there were disappointments, including a series of shapeless matte jersey dresses with pleated ruffle trim and drop waists.

Pale rose, fuchsia, and dusty lavender ruled at Michon Schur. The collection included several long silk and chiffon dresses with watercolor and maidenhair fern prints. The coats were the most memorable. Highlights included a hooded, blackand-white patterned version with three-quarter sleeves and a wool A-line coat in warm fuchsia.

Jenni Kayne, a young designer best known in Los Angeles, showed a feminine collection of high-waisted miniskirts and shifts that were cinched with both skinny and wide patent leather belts. Her collection veered from black and cream only once or twice, for a pair of fur collars. A black tiered fringe dress married Los Angeles cool to European craftsmanship: It would work as well with strappy heels as a pair of Frye boots.

The actress Zooey Deschanel opened the Erin Fetherston show on Sunday with a throaty rendition of the Mamas and Papas cover “Dream a Little Dream of Me.” The acoustic performance set the tone for the romantic collection. Gauzy dresses of blush, gray, and cream tones, were embellished with metallic star- and moon-shaped accents. Models wore thick, shimmery thigh-high tights that lent the high hems a sweet quality. Black velvet dresses and voluminous skirts nearly floated off the runway.