Follow That Bourbon

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The New York Sun

Like champagne and tequila, true bourbon can only be produced in one place. In the case of bourbon, that place is the state of Kentucky. To see how this distinctively American whiskey is made and what makes it special, thirsty travelers can head to central Kentucky to visit some of the best-known distilleries in the world.

The American Whiskey Trail, as mapped out by the Distilled Spirits Council, begins at Mount Vernon, Va., where a retired George Washington operated a distillery at a substantial profit for two years before his death. (A distillery and museum are under construction and will be open for visitors in April of next year.) After heading south to the birthplace of bourbon in Kentucky, the trail continues in Tennessee with the whiskey distilleries of Jack Daniels (jackdaniels.com) and George Dickel (dickel.com).

The complete trail makes for a leisurely road trip at more than 750 miles, but those with limited time will find the majority of the distilleries located amid the rolling, grass-covered hills of Kentucky.The same minerals that make the grass famously “blue” are credited with contributing to bourbon’s distinctive flavor: Limestone enriches both the soil and the spring water used to make the whiskey.

The history of bourbon is full of folklore and bragging, but the rules and regulations for making the hooch are rigid. To be called bourbon, whiskey must be made from at least 51% corn and a combination of other grains, typically rye and barley. (The distilleries tend to be secretive about their exact percentages.) Once fermented, the liquid is placed in stills, often copper, to remove impurities, usually at least twice.Then, the distilled liquor must be aged for at least two years in toasted new oak barrels.The char of the barrels contributes to the golden color and smoky taste, and also helps to mellow and deepen the flavor. At its best, bourbon has a rich, slightly sweet flavor, followed by a kick at the back of your throat, with a long, smooth finish, and aromas that might include vanilla, caramel, coffee, wood or oak, smoke, and spice.

After you’ve seen (and smelled) a couple of vats of churning, bubbling mash, you may have had enough of the sweet-sour yeasty live mixture in varying stages of fermentation, yet each distillery is different.

Jim Beam’s claim to fame is that it is the largest bourbon distillery and Beam’s gigantic factory is a corporate behemoth. Visitors are not allowed to tour the production facilities, but can visit a glorified gift shop at the Jim Beam American Outpost (149 Happy Hollow Road, Clermont, 502-543-9877, jimbeam.com), where dioramas explain the process of making bourbon and introduce such charming terms as “Angel’s Share,” the percentage of alcohol that evaporates from the barrels during the aging process, said to be stolen by angels.

The best reason to visit Jim Beam is for a guided tasting of their complete line of bourbons.The mainstream product that forms many Americans’ first impression of bourbon whiskey, the original white label Jim Beam is too harsh for my taste. But Jim Beam Black Label and their more refined Knob Creek, Booker’s, and Basil Hayden are another story entirely (www.smallbatch.com). These artisanal bourbons aren’t for cocktails. They taste best with just a drop of water or over a cube of ice. Each one has its own particular flavor profile and aromas. Arrange for a tasting at the T. Jeremiah Beam Home, adjacent to the outpost.

Maker’s Mark (3350 Burks Spring Road, Loretto, 270-865-2099, makersmark.com) is a National Historic Landmark and the home of the nation’s oldest working distillery on its original site. Unlike most of its competitors, Maker’s Mark makes only one product, soft and mellow bourbon with a caramel aroma and a smooth finish.The company’s president, Bill Samuel’s Jr., attributes the smooth taste to their use of red winter wheat instead of rye. This recipe, developed by Bill Sr. in the 1950s, represents a radical change in the family recipe that dated back to 1780 and had been sold commercially since 1840.

Maker’s Mark is proud to be one of the smallest distilleries, because its size is a reflection of its hands-on process.The beautiful grounds are dotted with dark chocolate-brown wood buildings edged with Maker’s Mark red, and remnants of gristmill stones that link the site to its 1805 origins as a gristmill and distillery.Visitors (over the age of 21) can purchase a souvenir bottle and dip it in wax in the gift shop.The trick is to put enough wax on the bottle so that when you slam it down on a hard, flat surface, you get plenty of long drips.

Wild Turkey (1525 Tyrone Road, Lawrenceburg, 502-839-4544, wildturkeybourbon.com) doesn’t put on airs.Visitors can tour the facilities and see every aspect of production, from the grains to the 40-foot-high column still. The grounds at Wild Turkey aren’t much to look at, but the aging facilities are a thing of beauty, barn-like structures piled high with oak barrels filled with bourbon of varying ages.

Though the exact origins of bourbon are frequently disputed, it’s a Baptist minister, Elijah Craig, who is often credited with being the first bourbon maker.Since Southern Baptists were historically allowed to drink bourbon only for medicinal purposes, Wild Turkey’s master distiller, Jimmy Russell, has joked that there’s quite a bit of hypochondria around these parts.


The New York Sun

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