The film “NoReservations” (2007), which opens in theaters this weekend, (reviewed by James Bowman on page 13), takes a behind-the-kitchen-doors look at one chef’s struggle to balance personal despair with new changes at her restaurant.

The reservation scene in culinary New York has become more complicated over the years: The famed restaurants Balthazar and Babbo reportedly have secret telephone reservation lines to which only those truly in the know are privy. Even some bars, such as Milk and Honey and the Brandy Library, require calls in advance. Other trendy restaurants do not take reservations at all, relying only on the patronage of walk-in customers and word-of-mouth.

This kind of system sometimes leads to long lines, as evidenced by the wait at Momofuku Noodle Bar and other popular eateries. But lengthy waits aren’t always so bad, as most restaurants allow patrons to have cocktails at the bar before being seated. Dinner and a Movie takes a look at three restaurants that don’t take calls in advance, but are worth a wait.

DINNER

The Spotted Pig — This restaurant happens to be a celebrity magnet: Ben Affleck, Liev Schreiber, Jay-Z, and other bold-face names have been spotted downing beers and bar snacks at this tiny West Village eatery. The sheep’s milk ricotta gnudi is still the Pig’s most popular dish, featuring pasta-like dumplings sauced with brown butter and sage. Also on the menu are “rollmops,” which are simply pickled sardines served in a small salad. (314 W. 11th St. at Greenwich Street, 212-620-0393)

‘inoteca — The sister restaurant of Jason Denton’s ‘ino on Bedford Street, this Lower East Side Italian eatery accepts reservation phone calls for large groups only — and that’s only if you’re lucky. But dinner at ‘inoteca is always worth a wait, especially because diners can order a glass of wine and a snack at either the small bar in the back of the front room, or a long counter running against one wall. The restaurant serves small plates of meats, cheeses, and paninis, as well as minor entrées. Polpette, or meatballs, are cooked in a tomato sauce spiked with orange zest, and the famed truffled egg toast — featuring a runny egg dripping from a huge slice of toast — is sprinkled with season-fresh asparagus. (98 Rivington St. at Ludlow Street, 212-614-0473)

Barrio Chino — One of ‘inoteca’s food-centric neighbors, this Mexican restaurant serves delicate tacos. The best by far are the al pastor pork tacos, served with tiny chunks of pineapple. The restaurant has a deft hand with calamari, grilling it quickly into tacos and also a salad, paired with a spicy dressing. Late night barflies flock here for grapefruit, blood orange, and jalapeño margaritas. (253 Broome St., between Orchard and Ludlow streets, 212-228-6710)

MOVIE

Scott Hicks’s fictional feature, “No Reservations” (2007), is a big-screen look at the collision of one character’s personal life with her high-strung career in a New York kitchen. In the midst of managing 22 Bleecker, Kate (played by Catherine Zeta-Jones) experiences a personal blow when her sister dies. Kate is left to take care of her 9-year-old niece, Zoe (Abigail Breslin). While she’s managing life at home, Kate also has to manage a new personage behind her stoves: her new souschef, Nick (Aaron Eckhart) arrives with an arsenal of opera recordings, charm, and fabulous cooking skills. Soon enough, Kate finds she needs to loosen the tight reins she has on her life in the kitchen and at home, so that she doesn’t lose touch with the new faces with whom she has already grown close. (Friday, 7 and 9:30 p. m., AMC Loews Kips Bay, 550 Second Ave., between 30th and 31st streets, 212-447-0638, $11.75)