Dinner & a Movie

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

Robert Benton’s “Feast of Love” (2007), about how love creates a frenzy among the residents of a small Oregon town, is a modern take on Shakespeare’s “A Midsummer Night’s Dream.” This theme of overabundance relates in many ways to food — there are countless restaurants in the city that serve their own kinds of regional “feasts,” from Swedish smorgasbords, to Indonesian rijsttafels, to a German Oktoberfest spread. Dinner and a Movie takes a taste of local feasts this weekend.

DINNER

Marcus Samuelsson’s Upper East Side restaurant, Aquavit, has set the standard in Swedish cuisine in the city for years. In 2001, he joined with the Nordic Center’s Scandinavia House to open AQ Café, taking a casual approach to the preparation of Swedish favorites such as Swedish meatballs and herring: Mr. Samuelsson prepares his herring in a number of ways, including marinating the fish in vodka and lime, or curry with apples and chives, or in the matjes style with red onion and sour cream. The meatballs are served with customary lingonberry preserves, mashed potatoes, and pickled cucumber. Other Swedish snacks include duck liver and duck confit terrine, and sautéed cod with dill cream. A smorgasbord plate, containing a selection of these snacks, is $9. (Scandinavia House, 58 Park Ave. at 38th Street, 212-879-9727)

Rijsttafel is a Dutch term coined during the 400 years of Dutch occupancy in Indonesia. The word refers to a culinary spread that features many small dishes of rice, curries, soups, and snacks that comprise one meal. Restaurants serving a traditional rijsttaffel are few and far between in the city, but one eatery, Java Indonesia Rijsttafel, serves it up daily. The meal begins with crunchy shrimp crackers and a bowl of soto madura, chicken soup cooked with plenty of bracing lemongrass, tofu, and celery. Next comes a dish of acar, vegetables marinated in vinegar and tumeric, and gado gado, another salad dressed with peanut sauce. After a waitress brings out a hot plate, small ramekins of curries are served, including spicy beef rendang and chicken ayam, both cooked with coconut milk, beef, and chicken satay, and ikan bumbu bali, fried cod pieces seasoned with turmeric. For a dessert, a coconut milk pudding is presented with a deep green tint (the dish is made with agar-agar, a type of gelatinous seaweed), but the flavor is all sweet, all coconut. The price of the meal is sweet, too: Java’s rijsttafel costs $37.50 for two people. (455 Seventh Ave. at 16th Street, Park Slope, Brooklyn, 718-832-4583)

For those of a Germanic inclination, this month means only one thing: Oktoberfest. For some, this conjures visions of lederhosen and wurstel colliding at German beer halls and gardens between now and Halloween. A decidedly more upscale Oktoberfest feast is currently being served at Kurt Gutenbrunner’s culinary ode to traditional German favorites, Blaue Gans. Special beers on tap include Ayinger Oktoberfest, Hofbrau Oktoberfest, and Weihenstephan Oktoberfest, as well as brews on tap throughout the year, including Bitburger Pils and Goesser Bier. Pretzels and sausages are made in-house, including the pork and beer burenwursts and pork and veal weigwursts. Classic German dishes include brlauchravioli, ravioli served with quark cheese and ramps, boiled beef shoulder, and rindsgulasch und sptzle, goulash served with spaetzle. Prost! (139 Duane St., between Church Street and West Broadway, 212-571-8880)

MOVIE

“Feast of Love” delves into matters of the heart in much the same complicated manner Shakespeare indulged in his play, “A Midsummer Night’s Dream.” Based on the novel of the same name by Charles Baxter, the movie centers on the observations of Harry, played by Morgan Freeman, a local Oregon professor who watches love wilt and blossom from his perch at a local coffee shop. The owner of the coffee shop, Bradley, played by Greg Kinnear, is a bona-fide romantic whose more practical wife suddenly leaves him — for another woman. He eventually meets, and becomes engaged to, a real estate agent, played by Radha Mitchell, who is secretly having an affair with a married man, played by Billy Burke. Meanwhile, two baristas at the shop, played by Alexa Davalos and Toby Hemingway, fall into physical (and eventually emotional) love almost instantly. “The swanning camera and judiciously measured dramatic tempos of ‘Feast of Love’ show him to be in top form as a craftsman with a humble yet personal touch,”Bruce Bennett wrote of director Mr. Benton’s work in the film, in the September 28 New York Sun. (Friday, 6, 8:15, and 10:20 p.m., Angelika Film Center, 18 W. Houston St. at Mercer Street, 212-995-2000, $10.75 general, $7.50 children and seniors)


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