Dinner & a Movie
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

At Dinner & a Movie, we don’t mind traveling beyond city limits every so often. This week, we follow a movie critic for The Sun, Bruce Bennett, to Jersey City, where he seeks out a horror film series devoted to Boris “Frankenstein” Karloff taking place at the Loews Jersey Theater. Jersey City — like neighboring Iselin, Edison, and Hoboken — are towns of wonderfully diverse character. Korean, Thai, Indian, Mexican, and Dominican restaurants flourish in these cities, serving the state’s immigrant communities, which are some of the largest in the country. Plus, Jersey City is only about 15 minutes away from Manhattan on the PATH trains. If you have a jones for authentic — really authentic — ethnic cuisine, a trip to Jersey City will suit you fine. Of course, the town has impressive American and European dining as well, and a look at what the city has to offer is featured in this week’s column.
TRAVEL
Jersey City is served by four PATH station stops: Pavonia/ Newport, Exchange Place, Grove Street, and Journal Square. New Yorkers traveling by public transit should map an itinerary in advance: Some restaurants are in walking distance of PATH stations, while others can be reached by taxi. The best station from which to hail a cab is Journal Square, in northern Jersey City, while Exchange Place and Grove Street are considered to be in the popular downtown area of the city.
Go to panynj.gov/commutingtravel/path/html for complete PATH directions, instructions, and more. The current fare is $1.50 per ride. PATH fare vending machines are installed at every PATH station in the city (World Trade Center, Christopher Street, 9th Street, 14th Street, 23rd Street, and 33rd Street).
DINNER
Marco & Pepe dishes out a menu with a sprinkling of Mediterranean, Asian, and American flavors. Fish and chips are a featured special on Thursday and Friday nights, and appetizers range from beef tartare to a charcuterie plate featuring albondigas (meatballs), homemade chicken liver paté, and prosciutto. All of the entrées (with the exception of the garlic and herb-roasted chicken) can be ordered in small or large portions, including macaroni and cheese, filet mignon wrapped in smoked bacon and served with a Cabrales blue cheese sauce, mushroom ravioli, and miso tuna served with udon noodles and roasted tomatoes. (289 Grove St. at Paulmier Place, Jersey City, 201-860-9688)
Nha Trang, walkable from the Grove Street PATH station, offers up bowls of Vietnamese pho, as well as bahn mi sandwiches, and hot coffee with condensed milk, among other items on its casual dining menu. Various cuts of beef including tendons, eye of round steak, brisket, and ground meatballs can be added to your helping of pho. The fried crispy spring rolls are filled with carrots and shrimp, and are made in-house. (249 Newark Ave., between Coles and Monmouth streets, Jersey City, 201-239-1988)
Have a bottle of wine that needs drinking this weekend? Take it to Madame Claude, a BYOB café that offers classic French bistro dishes, which, regrettably, are harder and harder to find in New York (to find them cooked decently is also a struggle). But Madame Claude is holding out, serving salads that feature croutons of goat cheese or warm calamari, artichokes, and basil. Entrées include pork chops with apples and calvados (apple brandy) sauce, and lamb shanks cooked with rosemary. Bring cash — credit cards aren’t accepted here. (364 1/2 4th St. at Brunswick Street, Jersey City, 201-876-8800)
Chowpatty, opened by Chandrakant Patel, is part restaurant and part snack shop. Diners entering the store are confronted with an array of sweet and salty snacks. At the back is an unassuming restaurant: Although Mr. Patel and his family are from Gujarat, in northwestern India, the place serves up fast, simple, and spicy South Indian dishes, including dosas (thin crepes served plain or filled with spicy potatoes), iddly (steamed rice flour cakes), and sambar (a thin lentil soup). Diners should go easy on the pickled vegetables that are offered with all dishes — if you’re not prepared, your mouth could be burning for a while. (809 Newark Ave., between Tonnele and Liberty avenues, Jersey City, 201-222-1818)
Taqueria Downtown isn’t fancy: Most locals find the cramped setting makes it a bit difficult to comfortably enjoy a sit-down meal. But for devotees of proper Mexican tacos, the lack of ornament (and elbow-room) is worth dealing with. Taqueria’s tacos are considered by many to be the best in Jersey City. Double tortillas are topped with carnitas (pork), nopalitos (cactus), cecina (salted beef), barbacoa (lamb), and more. The menu reflects the spirit of the restaurant: A list of banned items includes fajitas, nachos, and guacamole. (236 Grove St. at Grand Street, Jersey City, 201-333-3220)