Staying the Course
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

Though their collections are updated from season to season, designers Michael Kors, Rebecca Taylor, and Carlos Miele have clear visual vocabularies. And as yesterday’s shows illustrate, they are all doing well by staying the course. The laidback world of Michael Kors went varsity for fall – but in the label’s signature trust-fund baby way. The collegiate element was offset by elegant pieces in a classic autumn palette of loden and camel. Think prep school chums with their jet-set parents looking on. “The Graduate,” indeed.
The first look on the runway was a cashmere dress that had the look of an elongated rugby shirt with wide stripes of navy and deep red. Not everything was so directly sporty. In keeping with the trend toward buttoned-up shirts with bows, Mr. Kors sent out silk georgette foulard shirts with exaggerated long ties. If you’re going to do the ’80s silk blouse revival, this is the sexiest way to do it by far.
Tartan showed up on kilts and shirts, emphasizing the schoolyard feel, but it was more surprising on a tube dress with dark mink trim at the hem. Glen plaid and hunting plaid, too, were incorporated into outfits with clever pairings, including a camel hunting plaid tweed cardigan topped with a swinging pleated silk georgette skirt. Gowns for evening were not forgotten – a black halter with a spray of crystals closed the show – and neither were show-stopping furs. But the emphasis was on the Michael Kors vision of American sportswear.
A similar attention to core talent was apparent at Rebecca Taylor. Here were gorgeous, lacy styles for girls who rack up major dry-cleaning bills. A short-sleeve chocolate lace dress with a deep v-neck was shown in a modest style with a camel turtleneck underneath. A high-waisted tweed skirt with a sewn-in belt was topped with a sweetheart silk top in violet. Floral appliques were present on several pieces without too much frou.And a sheer black shirtdress with cream lace details made for a certain dolce noir style.
When Carlos Miele is on, he’s on – heart-stoppingly so. This collection balanced his superb talent for evening gowns with luxurious sweaters, skirts, and suits. That said, he continued the unfortunate trend toward balloon hems, a shape that doesn’t necessarily flatter anyone with hips.
But that’s a quibble. Gown after gown could make any fashion watcher swoon. An off-white floor-sweeper came with a layer of lace in a v-neck at the bodice, creating the illusion of two layers. A shimmering beige dress with twisted fabric straps was topped with an embroidered lace bodice. On gowns and short dresses, Mr. Miele used a pleating technique that kept the folds tight around the waist, then loose at the lower hem. The result was swishy, pleasing, and graceful. Amid all the diaphanous creations, one pair of pants stood out: suede capris with a black-on-white floral print. Paired with a silk and lace top, they were a fine example of casual luxury.
Kate Spade had a showing of accessories on Wednesday morning that veered between high gloss and careful preppiness.The best of the later were bright red handbags in suede with patent leather accents, as well as a series of python clutches and bags. For the pink-andgreen set, Ms. Spade had cotton canvas bags accented with stripes, plus clutches in canvas and shearling. Adorable rain shoes were topped with rhinestone square clips. Why not?