There’s a great episode of “King of the Hill” where circumstances force the family of propane salesman Hank Hill to cook with charcoal instead of Hank’s lifeblood, propane. To their surprise – and Hank’s horror – the charcoal cooked burgers taste miles better than anything they’ve ever cooked on their propane grill. That story line pretty well sums up my thoughts when it comes to grilling. For me, it’s got to be charcoal – it not only tastes better, but it’s more fun, more primal. If you want to cook by turning a knob, there’s a perfectly good place to do that: It’s called the kitchen. But lately I’ve been forced to acknowledge that some folks – most folks, in fact – aren’t as hardcore about charcoal as I am. Several of my friends have purchased gas grills in recent years (one of them thought I might never speak to him again), citing the convenience factor: no coals to light, no ashes to clean up afterward, easy temperature control.

And this mirrors the national trend. According to figures from the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association, a trade group, gas grill sales surpassed charcoal in 1995, and the gap has been widening since then. Of the 14.5 million grills sold last year, a little more than 60% were gas. Meanwhile, sales of charcoal briquettes last year were down more than 6% from 2003. Gas, once considered the grilling industry’s stepchild, may soon be turning charcoal into little more than a niche category.

So if you’re planning some barbecue action this holiday weekend, there’s a good chance you’re planning to do it on a gas grill. And while I still prefer charcoal, that’s a different battle for a different day. Instead, let’s focus on how to make gas-grilled food taste as good as possible.

First, let’s give gas its due: There’s no inherent difference between a gas-driven flame and a charcoal driven flame, and a steak can develop a delectable outer char from either one. What gas can’t offer, however, is that elemental kiss of smoke that makes the meat (or vegetables, or fish) taste like a summer day. So if we can’t get that extra flavor boost from the cooking process, we need to add it to the food before we start cooking. What follows are some good ways to do that, with an accompanying recipe for each method.

>>BRINING, which involves submerging the meat in salted and sometimes sugared water, used to be a way of curing and preserving meat, but in recent years it’s become increasingly popular as a way of adding flavor and juiciness, especially to pork. Because the free water in the meat’s cells has a lower concentration of dissolved substances than the brine, water from the brine is drawn into the meat by osmosis. In layman’s terms, this means the meat’s individual cells literally become moister and juicier. Flavorings added to the brine get infused into the meat, too, so you can add juices, spices, or even simulate some of that char-grilled smokiness by using liquid smoke (an underrated product that, contrary to what most people think, is all-natural). You won’t want to brine a prime-grade steak – or do much else to it, for that matter – but brining is ideal for today’s leaner, drier pork.

>>MARINADES aren’t water-based, so there’s no osmosis, and the flavoring effect therefore tends to be concentrated more on the meat’s surface than in its interior. But marinades usually include an acid, such as lemon juice, vinegar, or wine, which serves as an excellent tenderizer for tougher cuts.

>>DRY RUBS, comprised of ground spices, add only surface flavor. But unlike brining and marinating, which usually entail letting the meat soak for several hours or even days, dry rubs require very little lead time. Depending on your cooking method, they can also help seal in the meat’s juices.

>>A PASTE is sort of halfway between a marinade and a dry rub. It usually includes some type of oil, which means it’s not good for direct-heat grilling, because the oil will cause flare-ups, but it’s fine for indirect cooking with the grill lid closed.

Of course, all of these methods can be applied to charcoal grilling, too. Just don’t tell Hank Hill.

KEBAB MARINADE
This formulation is based on the marinade used to make spiedies (“SPEE-deez”), the wonderful kebabs served in the upstate taverns of Binghamton.

1 cup vegetable oil
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons lemon juice
4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1/4 cup chopped fresh sweet basil
1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley
3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
4 cloves fresh garlic, chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 1/2 teaspoons pepper

Combine all ingredients in a large, nonreactive bowl. Add three pounds of cubed beef, pork, lamb, or veal, refrigerate, and let soak for at least four hours. Veal can marinate for up to eight hours, other meats for up to three days.

SOUTHWESTERN DRY RUB
I always keep a supply of this rub on hand. It’s particularly good for chicken but also perks up cheaper cuts of beef.

2 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons garlic powder
1 tablespoon cumin
1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon ground sage
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 tablespoons salt
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine all ingredients. Apply liberally to meat and let meat sit 20 to 40 minutes before cooking.

HERB PASTE
This simple recipe creates an excellent crust when grilling lamb. Be sure to use fresh herbs, not dried.

2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
2 cloves garlic
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil

Place all ingredients in a food processor and pulse until it forms a coarse paste. Apply liberally to meat before cooking.

Buying a Gas Grill

If you don’t yet have a gas grill but are thinking of buying one, you face a dizzying array of choices. Prices range from a few hundred dollars to several thousand, and many of the brand names are confusingly similar (Broil King, Broilmaster, Char-Broil). Here are some basic tips to keep in mind.

You get what you pay for: Grills priced at less than $300 may work fine for a year or two, but they often break down after that, and they rarely carry extended warranties. The good news is that you don’t need to spend thousands of dollars to avoid this pitfall. Industry professionals consistently identify $500 as the price point where good value kicks in. In fact, it’s hard to buy a bad $500 gas grill.

Don’t obsess over BTUs: Salesmen love to talk about a grill’s BTU output, but grills with identical BTU specs can perform differently, depending on size and configuration. Celebrity chef Bobby Flay once told me, “I don’t even know how many BTUs you need – I just know you need to get some serious heat going.”

And speaking of “serious heat”: Ever wonder why your backyard steaks never quite match up to the ones at your local steakhouse? One reason is that steakhouse broilers get a lot hotter than conventional gas or charcoal grills, most of which top out at 600 or 700 degrees. But if you’re willing to spend some serious cash – figure at least $2,000, and probably more – there’s a new breed of gas grills that incorporate infrared ceramic burners, which can heat the grill all the way to 1,600 degrees. A good brand is Golden Blount, whose product line can be viewed at goldenblountinc.com.

Don’t over-accessorize: Extras like side burners and rotisseries look cool and make you feel like a big shot, but will you really use them? Basing your purchase on these add-ons is like buying a car for its cupholders. Focus on the basics first – the grill’s size, construction, and warranty – before getting caught up in the bells and whistles.

Go the extra mile: Shopping for a grill at Home Depot or Restoration Hardware may be convenient, but any sales help you’ll get will be rudimentary at best. If you’re spending real money, go to a real grill outlet, such as Big Apple Barbeque (149-13 14th Ave., Whitestone, Queens, 718-746-1212, www.bigapplebbq.com), where a knowledgeable staff can walk you through the particulars of each model and answer any questions you might have.