Comeback May Be Set for La Cote Basque

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

As many New Yorkers know, the 60s are staging a comeback. We see in the mini-skirt, granny shawls, anti-war protests, the promotional use of such singers as Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, and Nat King Cole and a surge in motorcycle sales.


Yet another sign: A possible revival of La COte Basque, for 45 years one of the Big Apple’s most prominent bastions of French haute cuisine prior to its closing last March.


Jean-Jacques Rachou, its 70-year-old former chef/owner, tells me he’s hoping to reopen the restaurant some time next year in the Upper East Side in the 70s or 80s.


Long a gathering place of the city’s and world’s elite, La COte Basque fell victim, as did other former French stars like Lutece and La Caravelle, to changing times – namely a faltering economy, the trend to less formal and less costly dining, a backlash to France’s refusal to support America in its war against Iraq, and a general reduction in food intake, especially high-calorie delights like foie gas and Grand Marnier souffles.


After shutting the restaurant, Mr. Rachou put his trademark – an eye-catching mural of a French seaside village – in storage, ditched the black tie captains and waiters, cut the lofty prices, and reopened it about 10 weeks ago as Brasserie LCB, a still relatively costly, but lower-priced bistro in its familiar Midtown location at 55th Street between Fifth and Sixth avenues.


So far, LCB, in part due to Mr. Rachou’s reputation and following, is enjoying brisk business, more so than might be expected during the normal summer slowdown. The restaurant, which seats 117, has also recently enticed some well-known personalities, among them Martha Stewart and Andy Rooney.


“We had over 170 dinners last night,” happily noted LCB manager Noel Lefroadec. “Business is very good, and keep in mind this is the summer season,” he said. Noting that nearby Carnegie Hall and City Center are both currently closed, he figures demand for LCB reservations should pick up even more sharply once they reopen in the fall.


One noted restaurateur who has dined at LCB and thinks it has a winning game plan, thought it could produce first-year revenues of $2 million-$3 million, or perhaps more if it can maintain its current pace.


Mr. Rachou’s planned rebirth of La COte Basque will depend, he tells me, on how much revenue can be generated from LCB, which he describes as a “brasserie deluxe.” He added: “I first have to make enough money to do it, but I’d like to reopen La COte Basque as soon as I can.” If indeed its rebirth becomes a reality, Mr. Rachou intends to restore the mural, as well as retain LCB, whose operations he’ll turn over to a maitre d’.


Whether he can succeed remains to be seen, but it’s clear Mr. Rachou still possesses the magic to pack ’em in. I can personally attest to that, having dined at LCB twice over the past two months and found the restaurant about 90% filled on both occasions.


Mr. Rachou thinks reduced prices, versus those of La COte Basque – 25% less for lunch and 35%-40% less for dinner – are a key reason for LCB’s strong showing. Speaking of reduced prices, the restaurant offers a $26 lunch and a $39 pre-theater dinner. That’s a far cry from the roughly frequent $100-perperson typical dinner check at La COte Basque, which, in its heyday in the Eighties, is believed to have generated annual revenues of about $10 million.


That Mr. Rachou’s restaurant thinking at LCB is heavily influenced by his days at La COte Basque can be seen by its pricey wine list. Though you can find a $25 bottle of muscadet, the wine list also includes a $2,800 Petrus, a $3,000 Lafite Rothschild, and a $1,300 Margeaux, hardly everyday drinking for the average bistro goer.


An obvious question is whether Mr. Rachou’s age is against him in his determination to revive La COte Basque. A few months ago I asked Andre Soltner, former owner of Lutece and one of the world’s master chefs, if he ever thought of opening another Lutece, Mr. Soltner, in his early 70s and currently teaching cooking, thought not. It’s very hard, he said, to recreate at 70 what you created at 40. “At some point,” he added, “it’s time to say goodbye.”


My thoughts: Cheers to Mr. Rachou. If he’s so bent on bringing back La COte Basque, I say – Go to it! You don’t discourage someone capable of painting another Mona Lisa.


The New York Sun

© 2025 The New York Sun Company, LLC. All rights reserved.

Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The material on this site is protected by copyright law and may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used.

The New York Sun

Sign in or  Create a free account

or
By continuing you agree to our Privacy Policy and Terms of Use