When the late Shah of Iran came to New York City about 25 years ago in the early 1980s for treatment for health problems, of all the barbers in the Big Apple, Finnish-born Peter Varpiainen, one of the masters of his trade, was chosen to cut the Shah’s hair at the hospital.

Now, some 25 years later, the 60-year-old Mr. Varpiainen is still plying his trade in an increasingly difficult environment for the city’s diminishing number of barbers in a small 400-squarefoot, three-chair barber shop, Peter’s Hair Styling, on the Upper East Side.

“It’s a real tough business,” he said, pointing in particular to the onslaught of new outlets from the national chain of Supercuts unisex shops, which undercut regular barber shops with low-cost haircuts that usually range from $12 to $15. Likewise, he notes, “most men today don’t care how their hair looks; all they want is it shorter.” Mr. Varpiainen observes that “it’s pretty easy to spot someone who has had a ‘super cut’ because they’re cut with a clipper and everyone comes out looking the same.” Still, he sees continued growth for Supercuts in the city because, as he puts it, “people want to save money any way they can.”

Maybe so, but not everybody. While you can get a haircut in the city for as low as $8 – the average cost is said to range between $20 and $25 – the price can run considerably higher if a noted hairstylist is involved. For example, at Frederic Fekkai, on 57th Street between Fifth and Madison avenues, a men’s haircut is $100. But should you want Mr. Fekkai personally to treat your locks, bring an extra-thick wallet since he charges $600. However, even if you’re willing to shell out $600 for a trim, getting an appointment is easier said than done. “We suggest you reserve three months in advance because he’s not here that often,” a reservations clerk told me.

Kenneth Battelle’s Kenneth Salon at the Waldorf-Astoria is also quite pricey. The price, which, thank goodness, includes a shampoo, is $105.

Indeed, though, lofty prices aside, Supercuts shops have taken their toll, as seen by the growing number of regular barbershop closings. Current figures show a total of 1,803 operating barbershops throughout the five boroughs, down from 2,157 at year-end 2002 and 2,380 at the end of 2000.That’s roughly a 24% drop in a little over five years. Aside from more intense competition, no doubt part of the decline in the number of traditional barbershops reflects higher lease costs, along with the retirements and deaths of older barbers.

While no one is suggesting the barbershop, one of the city’s oldest business establishments, is about to go the way of the dinosaur, clearly their sharp reduction is a message that the business is not what it used to be. In any event, it all adds up to somewhat tougher times for the city’s 4,231 barbers and 3,087 apprentice barbers.

While there are no specific salary figures available, barbers, according to industry estimates, take home a yearly paycheck, including tips, that generally ranges from $30,000 to $35,000.

Meanwhile, if you prefer a trim every day or several days a week, John Allans, a private men’s club, may be the place to go. There are two branches – one in the Wall Street area, the other in Midtown. Annual membership is $650, so there is no charge for a haircut. The club, which also offers manicures and shoeshines, is only open weekdays.

At Peter’s, where more sane prices prevail, a haircut will run you $21, or $24 with a shampoo. It also does a sizable business in shaves ($15.75).

Mr. Varpiainen, who began his barbering career in Finland when he was 15, came to America in 1965 and worked at Marjapta on Third Avenue, where he built a strong following. In May 1990, he opened his own barber shop at its current location at 64th Street on First Avenue.

Some of his better-known customers, dating back to the 1960s and 1970s, are Soupy Sales and Adolfo. Other celebrities include actor George Hamilton and composer Samuel Barber.

Peter’s Hair Styling, open six days a week and averaging about 25 haircuts a day, generates annual revenues of about $150,000. Creating a good part of the volume are two of Mr. Varpiainen’s long-term fellow barbers, Ignazzio, an Italian, and Boris, a Russian, each with strong followings of their own.

Since he has been a barber for 45 years, I asked Peter the obvious question: Would he recommend it as a trade to others? There was no hesitation. “Why not be a barber?” he fired back. “Sure, you’ll never get rich, but it’s a good profession and you’re making a contribution to society because everyone really needs a good haircut.”

Former Time Warner CEO Steve Ross certainly felt that way. On trips, he used to fly his barber with him on the corporate jet. When I asked him about it, he said, “If you want to look like a slob when you travel, that’s your business. But not me.”