Dinner & a Movie
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

Planning a jaunt downtown to catch the last of the Tribeca Film Festival? Having difficulty choosing a film, or a place to have a meal? “Dinner & a Movie,” a new weekly feature, provides readers of The New York Sun with recommendations on what to see and where to eat. This week, we take a look at the downtown scene buzzing around the film festival, with restaurant recommendations by a critic for the Sun, Paul Adams.
DINNER
Rosanjin (reviewed March 7): The only meal offered is a multicourse dinner that changes with the seasons and the whim of the chef. This is kaiseki, elegant Japanese art cuisine. When I went, we had nine courses for $150. First to the table came a constellation of four small bowls, all cold. A thin slice of chewy clam and a tiny wedge of brussels sprout in briny jelly occupied the center position. It was flanked by a rosy cube of delicate, rich monkfish liver, on its own in a little pedestaled cup; a bouquet of barely seared scallop, superbly fresh, with a sprig of crunchy fried lotus root and a single pomegranate seed, and a dish of mushroom, tofu skin, and a unique honeycomb-like brick of fish roe that burst between the teeth into salty, crunchy fragments. That’s just the first course (141 Duane St., between Church Street and West Broadway, 212-346-0664).
Devin Tavern (reviewed September 6, 2006): Executive chef Christopher Dunn, who also presides at Dylan Prime, has created a menu of about 40 American dishes that are hearty in the extreme. The appetizers — chicken and biscuits, stuffed pork belly — sound like main courses, and go down like main courses, too. Even a plain salad becomes a complicated affair of several kinds of lettuce and fruit. The chicken and biscuits, made with fresh upstate chicken, is an instant classic (363 Greenwich St., between Franklin and Harrison streets, 212-334-7337).
Blaue Gans (reviewed February 22, 2006): Blaue Gans is a demi-casual bistro serving traditional Austrian and German cooking, with none of the culinary or decorative elaborations that typify Kurt Gutenbrunner’s higher-end places. The cooking sticks closely to classic recipes, but shows a lighter, perhaps more vegetable-friendly version of the cuisine than one might find in Austria. Mr. Gutenbrunner has no fear of creative heights, but here he shows a knack for vernacular cooking, too, which can be just as transporting (139 Duane St., between West Broadway and Church Street, 212-571-8880).
MOVIES
Ben Barenholtz’s documentary “Music Inn” (2007) takes a look at performances by jazz and folk musicians, which took place during festivals in the Berkshires between 1950 and 1960. The musicians played to discover the roots of their music through performance and discussions, creating a venue where almost every major jazz musician performed, culminating in the first school of jazz (Friday, 2:30 p.m., AMC Village VII, 66 Third Ave. at 11th Street 212-505-6397, $14).
Talia Lugacy’s “Descent” (2007) follows the struggles of a college student who at first enjoys her new independent life with her boyfriend, only to suffer a violent attack. After spiraling into a world of drugs, rage, and despair, the student gets a chance to confront her attacker and is offered the opportunity to settle the score. The film features actress Rosario Dawson (Friday, midnight, AMC Village VII, 66 Third Ave. at 11th Street 212-505-6397, $18).