Dinner & a Movie

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun
The New York Sun
NEW YORK SUN CONTRIBUTOR

This week, The New York Sun takes a look at the documentary “Crazy Love” (2007), about a New York couple and their criminally interesting history. The antagonist in the film, Burt Pugach, is a New York lawyer, and this week, Dinner & a Movie checks out eateries where lawyers might find themselves relaxing for dinner or drinks. We’re dining and viewing in Midtown West, exploring the streets beyond the office buildings.

DINNER

The new Greek revival in New York is heating up, and Michael Psilakis is the one turning up the flame. His first Manhattan restaurant, Onera, helped pioneer the movement in 2004. Now, three restaurants later, he is asking $44 for lamb chops. Onera broke new ground for inventive Greek-inspired cooking, but Anthos innovates in a different way. The dishes listed in the left-hand column of the menu haven’t changed dramatically at the new restaurant, but the numbers on the right have leapt up, making it hard to escape the floral-decorated dining room for under $100 a head sober, and impossible if you want to sample the interesting Greek wine list. Mr. Psilakis favors unusual harmonies among his ingredients, an approach that succeeds most, but not all, of the time. Bright-pink tuna is seasoned with mastic, the aromatic resin with a bitter piney taste; mint, vinegar, and potato temper the sweetness of faintly smoked sable (aka black cod), and firm cobia fish gets a savory gel coating flavored with lamb. It’s a quick, immersive tour of the chef’s imagination. (36 W. 52nd St., between Fifth and Sixth avenues, 212-582-6900) — Paul Adams (Reviewed April 25)

The Sun also selects:

Forte Baden Baden — A Koreatown hof, or beerhouse, the restaurant is famous for its Baden chicken, a rotisserie chicken that is also deep-fried for crunchy skin. (28 W. 32nd St., between Broadway and Fifth Avenue, 212-714-2266)

Café Muse — Another Koreatown staple, Café Muse serves up large lattes and American and Korean desserts, including ice cream and Korean cakes. (43 W. 32nd St., between Broadway and Fifth Avenue, 212-290-1414)

Esca — One of Mario Batali’s early eateries, Esca concentrates on Italian seafood, including a dish of spaghetti featuring a 1-pound lobster. (402 W. 43rd St. at Ninth Avenue, 212-564-7272)

Eatery — Known above all for its brunch, Eatery does well at dinner with its American menu featuring comfortable staples, such as macaroni and cheese, served with a glossy touch. (798 Ninth Ave. at 53rd Street, 212-765-7080)

MOVIES

Filmmakers Dan Klores and Fisher Stevens (of “Short Circuit” fame) were intrigued enough with the decades-long coupling of Burt Pugach and Lin da Riss to document their in tense, crime-riddled romance in their film “Crazy Love” (2007) Pugach met Ms. Riss when she was a 21-year-old receptionist living in the Bronx, and he was a married lawyer in his mid-30s. Pugach quickly fell in love with the beautiful woman, but after Pugach kept delivering empty promises to leave his wife, Ms Riss left him and became engaged to another man. Pugach then hired a thug to throw lye in Ms. Riss’s face, leaving her blind and disfigured. During a 14-year stint in jail, Pugach became even more obsessed with Ms. Riss, and when he was released, they got married. In today’s Sun, S. James Snyder writes, “Seeing the two together in the present, there’s something at once uncomfortable and refreshing about their candor with one another — the kind of bluntness that can only emerge when two people have seen each other at their worst.” (Friday, 7 and 9:25 p.m., Lincoln Plaza Cinemas, 1886 Broadway between 62nd and 63rd streets 212-757-2280, $10.75)

The New York Sun
NEW YORK SUN CONTRIBUTOR

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.


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