Dinner & A Movie
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In the culinary world, the pairing of French and Japanese cuisines is a challenge that many of New York’s top chefs have taken on. Raw fish preparations abound in both Asian and European styles. Chefs such as David Bouley regularly work Japanese ingredients into European preparations. This week, Dinner and a Movie takes a look at three Euro-Asian restaurants , as well as the latest film playing at the ImaginAsian theater, “Journey From the Fall,” about a family’s struggle to immigrate to America at the end of the Vietnam War.
DINNER
Chef Noriyuki Sugie’s menu at Asiate — inside the Mandarin Oriental Hotel at the Time Warner Center — has had diners swooning for his luxurious combination of Japanese and French cuisines. Two of the most popular dishes are the suckling pig, served with “trotter” croquette, pig cheek confit, and a japonegi sauce; and the Wagyu beef, served with smoked potato puree, braised oxtail, and yuzu koshou, a sauce made from the piquantly tart yuzu fruit, originally grown in Japan. (80 Columbus Circle at 60th Street, between Broadway and Columbus Avenue, 212-805-8881)
Despite the recent departure of chef Josh DeChellis, Sumile restaurant is still alive and kicking in the West Village. Mr. DeChellis opened the restaurant with two distinct goals in mind: creating an environment where traditional sushi culture could flourish, and designing a dinner menu that could successfully represent his taste for French and Japanese cuisine. Entrées include white Peking duck with pea greens, and roasted miso cod with celery root and clams. Sushi chef Toshio Oguma makes his sushi in the Edomae style: Edo was the first name for the city of Tokyo, and chefs in the first century of the common era designed ways to serve preserved fish on rice seasoned with vinegar. (54 W. 13th St., between Sixth and Seventh avenues, 212-989-7699)
Chef David Bouley indulges in Japanese flavors at his restaurant Upstairs, which sits on top of his bakery and market in TriBeCa. The menu is split among sushi, Japanese dishes, fish and meat, pastas, and desserts. Japanese sliced duck is served in a heady broth flavored with miso and topped with grilled eggplant and spicy microgreens. Two fresh fish dishes include Portuguese sardines, split down the middle and served open-faced on top of angel hair pasta with a freshly briny sauce; and scallops served with peas and mushrooms in a coconut-lime sauce. Mr. Bouley’s famous pastries, including an isphahan (raspberry macarons sandwiched with rose and lychee pastry cream), are on the dessert menu, as is a white chocolate parfait with fresh raspberries. (130 W. Broadway at Duane Street, 212-608-5829)
MOVIE
In April 1975, at the end of the Vietnam War, countless individuals and families struggled to immigrate to America, escaping the clutches of communist officials and seeking a better life elsewhere. Ham Tran’s “Journey From the Fall” is based on true accountsofescape. Lead character Long Nguyen (who plays himself in the film) is imprisoned in a communist re-education camp, but urges his family to make a treacherous trip by boat to America. While his family settles into a new life, Mr. Nguyen languishes in the camp, eventually believing that his family has perished. When he receives news that they have indeed survived, he makes one last attempt to join them. (Friday, 2, 4, 7 and 9:30 p.m., ImaginAsian Theater, 239 E. 59th St., between Second and Third avenues, 212-371-6682, $10 general, $7 students, seniors, and children)