The reason for the buzz surrounding Bistro du Vent, a bustling little bistro on 42nd Street west of Ninth Avenue, is obvious once you know who’s behind the restaurant – namely Mario Batali, Joseph Bastianich, and David Pasternack. Messrs. Batali and Bastianich, in case you’ve just moved here from Uruguay, are partners in Babbo, Lupa, Bar Jamon, Casa Mono, and Esca, the cruderia located practically behind Bistro du Vent, where Chef Pasternack is executive chef. Unlike all those other eateries, Bistro du Vent, of course, is French – southern French to be exact – definitely Chef Pasternack’s purview, as he once manned the stoves at Picholine before taking on the uncooking of fish at Esca. Obviously, he’s deft at Mediterranean cuisine in general, and has entrusted his menu to executive chef Lawrence Di-Joseph, who, not coincidentally, was once his right hand at Picholine. Chef DiJoseph comes to Bistro du Vent by way of Zinc Bistrot in Portland, Ore.

Though the bistro only opened on January 1, it seems to have gotten up and running pretty smoothly, no doubt in good part because a couple of the managers I recognize from the Batali-Bastianich empire’s other eateries are now here working out the kinks, including Jeremy Noye, the former wine director at Esca, who is the general manager here. It’s worth mentioning that Mr. Noye has amassed an impressive, incredibly affordable list of wines from all over France, with almost two dozen of them offered by the “pichet,” a carafe filled with one-third of a bottle, priced between $6 and $15.

The decor is somewhat dim, despite the off-white walls, and the dramatically tall, tufted red leather banquettes seem rather modern in a space that I believe is aspiring to look like a well lived-in – though certainly not well smoked-in – authentic French bistro. Regardless, it’s small enough to feel intimate and loud enough to feel convivial.

The menu isn’t long, but it seems formidable, which probably has more to do with the lengthy food descriptions than the French/English translations. Unlike a bistro menu in France, this one gives its American audience a list of practically every ingredient in each dish, if not the execution details.

A classic onion soup is made with five different onions and served with bone marrow and croutons ($6). It’s fantastic. So is the frisee aux lardoons ($11) made with smoked bacon; I only wish the poached “farm egg” had been left runny to augment the pungent mustard vinaigrette. Another satisfying salad is made with duck confit, including both the gizzard and leg ($10), tossed with baby greens, pickled cabbage, and celeriac.

About as close as you’ll get to crudo here is “Armandino’s Prosciutto” ($12), described as “Mario’s dad’s lamb prosciutto with cranberry confiture.” Unlike typically thin-sliced pork prosciutto, this has more heft, sort of like bacon without the smoke, and a far meatier flavor than the real deal. With no disrespect to Mr. Batali’s dad, although this meat is quite good, I wouldn’t give up prosciutto di Parma for lamb. The boudin blanc, however, made with chicken and sweetbread sausage ($8), is perfect in texture, flavor, and execution, and is served with the best sauerkraut I’ve had this side of Alsace.

Bistro du Vent makes good use of a spit roaster, so it’s worth seeking out its spit-roasted meats – especially since they change weekly, if not daily. A spit-roasted loin of pork ($20) is rubbed with a pervasive amalgam of garlic, cloves, long pepper (a sweet, fiery variety from Southeast Asia), and green peppercorn, all of which are used again to bathe the moist, tender meat after it rests. The spit-roasted lamb shank ($20), treated with a blend of Moroccan spices, is surprisingly dry in texture, though exceptionally flavorful.

Two beef dishes are perfect. “Daube de Boeuf,” or braised beef ($18), finished with orange essence and fruity olive oil, was rendered so tender, it practically collapsed before my fork touched it. And the classic steak frites dish ($23) was exactly what it should be: an expertly grilled sirloin (seared outside, rare inside) splashed with an anchovy-rosemary oil before serving, lending the meat an additional layer of saltiness that intensified the meat’s meatiness. The accompanying pommes frites were exemplary, too.

Two sides worth mentioning are the “scarole” ($6), wonderfully bitter escarole braised with garlic and parsley, and “chou” ($6), a fabulous kraut made with cabbage simmered with chestnuts and cider.

Desserts (all $7) didn’t disappoint. The tarte tatin made with caramelized apples and creme anglaise was flaky, sweet, and light. A heady gateau au fromage, made with bleu de basque cheese and prune almond cake with sauteed apples, was as rich, savory, and wonderful as it sounds. The table favorite, however, were the profiteroles, pastry puffs stuffed with praline ice cream drizzled with bittersweet chocolate sauce.

Bistro du Vent, 411 W. 42nd St., 212-239-3060.