David Mills’s Harlem caviar bar, Emperor’s Roe, is an unexpected find among Lenox Avenue’s row of churches, brownstones, and dilapidated storefronts. But sometimes a dose of luxury is exactly what a neighborhood needs. I’m not the only local resident who likes occasionally to stroll into the airy room around sunset, sit at the bar, and indulge myself with a glass of champagne and a platter of fish eggs. Fifteen dollars buys four hot blinis, each bearing slices of dense, smoky smoked salmon, lathered with creme fraiche, and capped with a spoonful of steel-grey American sturgeon caviar. The four little towers are perfect shared two ways, or as a solo indulgence. Since it opened a few months ago, the little bar has been gradually introducing more features: wine service, a counter of luxury takeout goods, and a wider variety of snacks. I look forward to the full dinner menu, which Mr. Mills promises soon.

Emperor’s Roe, 200 Lenox Ave. at 120th Street, 212-866-3700.