On a day of sun and surf, the lobster roll is welcome nourishment, a bounty of seafood in a tidy package. People in the Hamptons often overlook such traditional fare in favor of their Manhattan staples such as panini or mesclun greens with poached salmon (of which there are plenty at the Water Mill and East Hampton outposts of Citarella). Either that or they think the only good lobster roll can be had in Maine. Fortunately, the homegrown, family-run Job’s Lane Deli in Southampton makes a carry-and-go version that’s both convenient and delicious for a bargain price of $10.

The rolls, which feature high quality — if not local — knuckle and claw meat, are the glory of the deli case, where they’re surrounded by homemade salads and meats freshly roasted on the premises. All of this keeps the tight store bustling. (Note there’s no place to sit.)

The taste captures the freshness of the sea, intensified by the sweetness of melted butter. One of the kitchen’s tricks is using just enough Hellmann’s mayonnaise to bind the meat. Celery adds a nice snap, and thankfully there’s very little salt. What really creates the flavor is the buttered and toasted roll, which miraculously doesn’t get soggy. For one thing, the rolls are never sitting in the case for long, since they are made fresh each morning. Fred White, who owns and runs the deli with his wife, Tina Marie, and counts his children Nicole, Freddy, and Alexandra as employees, had another explanation: The kitchen always lets the roll cool before overstuffing it with about six ounces of lobster salad. That’s right, six ounces. No wonder it tastes so good. The Whites have been in business for 14 years on Job’s Lane and in the fall are adding a market twice the size in East Moriches.