A Bubbly Treat

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The New York Sun

Next time you’re relaxing in Central Park and are a bit peckish, consider a snack from a cart. Leave the green, cross Columbus Circle, and head up to the 35th floor of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. There you’ll find the ne plus ultra snack: the Champagne cart. It rolled into the lobby bar recently to offer guests an indulgent summer treat.

The cart offers Dom Pérignon and Krug Champagnes, selections that are not available on the regular wine list. Before the cork is popped, the waiter adds a spoonful of “Mandarin purée” to the glass, a fresh-fruit concoction prepared by the chef at Asiate, Nori Sugi. “I think people like mimosas, so I made something a little bit sweeter, but with an Oriental flavor,” Mr. Sugi said.

The purée is a blend of fresh calamansi (an Asian lime) and Mandarin orange. “The chef’s touch is the saffron,” Mr. Sugi said. “It makes it a little savory and gives it color.” The marigold-colored liquid is served in a Champagne flute on a silver tray accompanied by bamboo skewers of fresh berries and a silver dish of dried exotic fruits.

Champagne seems to whet the appetite, so a terrine of lobster and white asparagus arrives moments later. The dish is garnished with a large spoonful of Beluga caviar. The Dom Pérignon is served by the glass ($75) and the Krug by the half bottle ($175). Given the current price of Beluga caviar is about $200 an ounce (if you can find it) the Champagne cart is almost a bargain — and it offers a great view of Central Park, too.


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