
Roni Ben-Hur’s Stylish Latin Jazz Entente
By WILL FRIEDWALD
|This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

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We restaurant writers fall back on certain handy adjectives perhaps more than we should: “ethereal” for desserts, “leaden” for bad gnocchi, and the perennial bet-hedging favorite, “uneven.” Once in a while, however, the lazy word choice is really the most appropriate. Fillip’s, a new Chelsea restaurant, is wildly uneven.
We restaurant writers fall back on certain handy adjectives perhaps more than we should: “ethereal” for desserts, “leaden” for bad gnocchi, and the perennial bet-hedging favorite, “uneven.” Once in a while, however, the lazy word choice is really the most appropriate. Fillip’s, a new Chelsea restaurant, is wildly uneven.
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By GEORGE WILLIS
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