Many East End restaurants are designed to appeal to the city sensibilities of summer residents, but a delightful handful, owned and operated by yearround residents, are firmly rooted in their shoreside locales.

The North Fork Table and Inn (57225 Main Road, Southold, 631-765-0177), is owned and run by two couples, refugees from the Manhattan dining scene, who have created a restaurant that wouldn’t likely exist in the city. As much as possible, their ingredients, their staff (including college students home for the summer), and their wines come from Long Island. Even the generous amount of space between the tables, and the soft taupe and gentle blue wainscot walls remind you that you’re not in Manhattan anymore.

It is the second summer for the husband and wife team, chef Gerry Hayden (formerly of Amuse and Aureole)and pastry chef Claudia Fleming (formerly of Gramercy Tavern), and their partners and co-owners, Mike and Mary Mraz.

While the menu is subject to change, this summer’s offerings might include beet salad with goat cheese from nearby Catapano Dairy, raw local fluke with radish syrup, pan-roasted Peconic sea bass, and other ingredients sourced from farther afield, such as California squab with lavender glaze, and Colorado lamb chops served with local baby carrots and pea greens. And just when you think it can’t get any better, there’s dessert: chocolate caramel tart that’s wonderfully savory, sweet, and sticky; and delightfully light passion fruit sorbet with coconut tapioca; ricotta cheese cake with wine-poached cherries; and Ms. Fleming’s famous warm, fluffy doughnuts. Lunch includes some compelling sandwich options: chilled lobster salad with lemon confit and bacon, or grilled pork belly with cheddar cheese and apples. The tasting menu is $40 for lunch, and $80 for a five-course dinner with a $30 supplement for wine pairing.

Another chef/pastry-chef team, Terry Harwood and Lisa Murphy, alumni of André Balazs’s Sunset Beach, who first met in Manhattan at the Union Square Café, are proprietors of Vine Street Café (41 S. Ferry Road, Shelter Island, 631-749-3210). The rustic-casual American country bistro focuses on the kind of New York summer foods we love — corn, tomatoes, scallops, and fresh salad greens — with many of the ingredients sourced from the North Fork. Other stand-outs include marinated beet salad, grilled sardines, and steak frites with a choice of meat: skirt steak, organic sirloin, filet mignon, or cote de boeuf.

Desserts include chocolate gâteau, pineapple tarte tatin, and seasonal fruit crisps as well as ice cream and sorbet made from scratch. Appetizers range from $7 to $14 and entrées from $23 to $34. Early birds, though, can opt for a three-course prix fixe menu from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday for $35, including one glass of wine a person. Lunch is served on Saturdays and Sundays.

The Clam Bar (13595 Montauk Highway, Amagansett, 631-267-6348) is the quintessential Long Island fish shack, the kind of place you yearn for in the winter. There are a few bar stools at the counter, but most of the seating is outside on a gravel lot. It’s the kind of place you can come to straight from the beach. Although they serve a pretty good lobster roll, what’s really special here, as the name implies, are the clams: briny, chewy raw little necks and fried sweet clam strips (on a platter, or in a clam roll on a hot dog bun with tartar sauce, $5.50). Even better, there’s juicy, chubby fried clam bellies, and when available (they often run out early), Long Island steamers ($17.50).

Overall, the deep-fried items such as tuna bits (batter-dipped chunks of moist fresh tuna steak best consumed while molten hot for $9) and tender or breaded oysters, trump the grilled fish platters that some body-conscious beachcombers insist on ordering. Children tend to go for the hot dogs. There’s something completely liberating about drinking beer ($5) and eating local seafood on paper plates along this stretch of Route 27 between Amagansett and Montauk that makes you forget that you’ll ever have any responsibilities again.