Matthew Weingarten, the chef at Porcupine, in Nolita, writes an enticing, almost manipulative menu. Nothing is simply roasted: it’s invariably “pan-roasted,” “ovenroasted,” or ever so tantalizingly “slow-roasted.” A rabbit ragu is “mountain style,” salad dressing is “barrel vinaigrette,” and one suspects him of buying some ingredients, like Honeycrisp apples or Delicata squash, purely on the basis of their appetizing epithets. Fortunately, his food ably stands up to its PR. Mr. Weingarten, previously of Quilty’s and Tuscan, has a keen knack for amplifying pure flavors, and his sophisticated brand of rustic American cooking makes a memorable impression.

Porcupine’s looks (the decor is held over from the restaurant’s brief previous incarnation as Mix It, under a different chef) give little hint as to the nature of the place: with its tin ceiling, red ceiling fans, rough plaster walls, and looming dark-wood bar, it could be just another ordinary, handsome bistro. But warmly attentive service, whimsical notebook-style menus, a crisp bouquet of sliced red and black radishes served alongside the firm rustic bread, and other choice, modest details show the care with which the restaurant is put together.

A starter of cauliflower ($8) shows the chef at his capable best: roasting brings out the unassuming vegetable’s sweetly nutty savor, which is enhanced by a pool of suave walnut sauce and counterbalanced by the tartness of a few plump macerated cherries. A melange of wild mushrooms ($10) makes another sim ple treat. They are sealed in a parchment-paper envelope with plenty of butter and woodsy herbs and roasted, an approach that maintains their firmness while also maximizing their flavor; moist, fragrant chestnut crepes, served alongside, can be used to wrap the mushrooms.

In an intense salad ($9), two salty, savory fried quail eggs top mellow chioggia beets, whose sweetness is matched by tiny greens covered in a tangy, almost harsh vinaigrette. Pureed lettuce soup ($8) pulls off the feat of developing, rather than masking, the delicate flavor of the lettuce, with judicious use of butter and stock, and more than a hint of lemon accenting the vegetable’s sweetness. Celery root pudding ($12), rich and eggy and studded with chunks of the root, accomplishes a similar treatment of a vegetable that usually shuns the spotlight. The dish is rounded out with firm chunks of veal cheek braised in white wine and finished with a dark sauce; quartered green grapes lend additional interest.

Two pasta dishes occupy a halfway position on the dinner menu, where they can be ordered in a small or large size as a starter, a middle course, or a main course. Rotolo ($10/$16) consists of smooth, supple sheets of pasta wrapped around a super-rich, sweetish filling of ricotta with currants. The roll, cut into slices and baked, is full-flavored and satisfying, though not deeply exciting to the palate; the other pasta is much more so. Soupy, dun-colored rabbit ragu in a deep bowl covers hand-cut tagliatelle-like ribbons ($11/$17). The pasta is firm, almost undercooked, and marries excellently with the long shreds of meat and diced carrots in the sultry, deep-flavored ragu.

Main courses don’t quite have the adventurous character of the starters, but that’s not a defect. Pan-roasting gives black bass ($22) a crisp, almost charred skin and tight white flesh; black olives and anise provide the simple, tasty fish a piquant foil. A roasted halibut filet ($24) has more delicate nuance: it rests in an earthy artichoke puree, which, along with pieces of spicy pancetta and savory hazelnuts, brings out the subtleties of the mild fish.

The profound flavor of a sizeable shell steak ($25) makes up for its unusually coarse texture, with a thick, near-black crust surrounding buttery, lusty meat. The accompanying “Swiss chard tart” stands out as well: just a pressed loaf of cooked chard leaves, it carries tremendous, rich flavor, and the unctuous chard stems running throughout feel to the tongue like the marbling of fine beef. Grilled chicken ($17) comes on a bed of toothsome farro; the meat is deeply saturated with the flavor of woody herbs.

Desserts are few but excellent: a crusty torte ($8) lightened with ricotta and filled with a layer of dark chocolate vanishes quickly; the oversized dollop of fluffy, rich cream alongside is attractive but unneeded. A “spice-roasted” pear ($8), tender and lush with warm spice, is offset by a cool almond custard. A platter of daily artisanal cheeses ($7/$10/$14, depending on size) is exquisitely assembled, but somewhat overwhelming after a high-powered Porcupine dinner. The restaurant’s cheeses, chutneys, and house cured olives (unusual in flavor, with strong strokes of cinnamon and citrus) shouldn’t be ignored, though: they can be, and deserve to be, enjoyed as the subject of a separate visit to the restaurant. Perching at the comfortable bar with a bowl of olives ($4) or plate of cheeses and a superior cocktail is a highly rewarding experience.

The house cocktail, “The Porcupine” ($9), is a bracing russet brew of fresh ginger, lemon juice, and firm, dryish Gosling’s rum: simple, strong, and redolent of spice and honey. The bartender does a splendid job with classic cocktails as well. Just a few red and white wines are available by the glass, which isn’t enough: D. Bosler’s super-delicate pinot noir ($9) and Mandolin’s peppery, plummy zinfandel-merlot blend ($8) both appeal, but there’s a palpably unfilled middle ground between them. The lively selection of well-priced, mostly New World bottles has much more range, though the well-meaning staff can sometimes seem unfamiliar with its ins and outs.

Porcupine has the friendly intimacy and general air of a neighborhood restaurant, even while its serious, sensuous food and artful touches make it more than that. Intelligent preparations highlighting excellent, earthy ingredients set it apart from flashier places as well. Mr. Weingarten and owner Jacques Ouari have a clear conception of how to thrill a customer, and, plainly, the skill and savvy to carry it out.

Porcupine, 20 Prince St., 212-966-8886.