It may not seem like much of an accomplishment, but one of rarest pleasures of the table is finding interesting wines through the entire course of a dinner. Too often, in their attempt to achieve this, hosts spend too much money serving blockbusters.

Now, there’s nothing wrong with such wines. One feels flattered.But it’s a rare blockbuster-serving host who can restrain himself (it does seem to be a guy thing) to just one solitaire jewel of a wine. Usually it’s an embarrassment of riches, in every sense.

One of the great literary examples of this is found in an unjustly forgotten 1924 book called “La Vie et la Passion de Dodin-Bouffant, Gourmet,” which became “The Passionate Epicure” when it was translated into English in 1961. The author, Marcel Rouff, was the sidekick of the famous French gastronome Curnonsky.

Its fictional hero, Dodin-Bouffant, lived for his not-inconsiderable stomach and was renowned as an epicure of true refinement. Indeed, the depiction of Dodin-Bouffant — once past the parody on the real-life Brillat-Savarin on whom he is modeled — is a portrait of thoughtful restraint.

One of the more memorable chapters has the Prince of Eurasia, who fancies himself a great connoisseur, taking the waters near Dodin-Bouffant’s town in the Jura region bordering Switzerland. (Marcel Rouff was Swiss born.) Dodin-Bouffant’s fame was such that the prince sought him out as a guest for a dinner in his honor.

Dodin-Bouffant assented, only to be appalled at the unthinking excess and lavishness of the prince’s over-the-top banquet, which he had been told was carefully chosen by the prince himself, who fancied himself Dodin-Bouffant’s equal in matters of the table.

Dodin-Bouffant subsequently invited the Prince to his home for dinner and served him, as the centerpiece dish, the homely pot-au-feu — boiled beef! Of course, it was a pot-au-feu such as no one had ever eaten, accompanied by wines throughout the meal that were, as the French might say, comme il faut.(The pot-au-feu was served with a Chambolle-Musigny, a Burgundian pinot noir notable for its delicacy and exceptional perfume.)

The prince, shown the error of his meretricious ways, was both suitably abashed and uplifted. “Dodin, perfectly happy, gave a little smile. He triumphed. To the vain sumptuosities of the prince he had responded with a meal that was simple, short, home-spun but done with an artistry so profound it had persuaded even the dispenser of those superfluous luxuries of his own superficiality.”

An overripe depiction, to be sure. But no less true for that. For a summertime dinner, you want wines that are unimposing yet invigorating, but still replete with refinement and even intrigue. The following wines are suitable — dare I say it? — for your most princely guests.

HERE’S THE (ROYAL) DEAL

ALBARIÑO “RIAS BAIXAS” 2005, MARTÍN CODAX

Let’s say that you’re starting your meal with scallops or swordfish or a good ceviche. The Prince of Eurasia approach would be to flourish some fabulous white Burgundy with a gold-plated name. Not a good idea.

Instead, you want a dry white that’s austere and re strained, a wine that allows your dazzlingly fresh fish voilà!) to shine. A Spanish albariño from the Rias Baixas (ree-ahs bye-shuss) district in the northwest ern corner of Spain, just north of Portugal and abutting the Atlantic Ocean.

Martín Codax (named after a medieval composer from the area) is the creation of an unusually enter prising and adept group of vineyard owners who banded together to create and market their own col lectively made wine. Also — and unusually — the great majority of the employees, including much of the management and the house enologist, are women.

The just-released 2005 Martín Codax albariño is classic example of what a good Rias Baixas albariñ should be: free of intrusive oak, crisp, and delivering whiffs of minerals, almonds, and peaches. This is re ned, restrained dry white wine meant to partner with sh. The price is equally exceptional: $10.95.

MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO 2004, TORRE DEI BEATI

One of the wine refinements of our time is the emergence of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo as a red wine worthy of a star turn at the table. This is a red you want to pair with, say, a loin of lamb rubbed with little more than a glistening sheen of olive oil and a scattering of chopped fresh rosemary before it’s done to a medium rare turn in the oven or, better yet, on a rotisserie over live coals.

Torre dei Beati, which takes its name from a fresco in a local church, is the creation of a married couple both of whom are former sommeliers. This is an es tate with vision and rigor. Their 26 acres of vines are farmed biodynamically. Yields are unusually low and their winemaking style is what might be called mod ern traditionalism: deep, rich, and clean, yet far from sterile.

Torre dei Beati’s 2004 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo suffused with a scent and taste of minerals allied to the montepulciano variety’s signature plum and cher ry savor. It’s an unusually refined rendition without be ing over-polished. The price is cheap for the lustrous quality: $15.99 at Chambers Street Wines; a bit more elsewhere.

MOSCATO D’ASTI “SOURGAL” OR “CLARTÉ” 2005 ELIO PERRONE

A great summer meal should finish with the low-alcohol, slightly sweet, and surprisingly crisp invigoration of the frothy white muscat wine called Moscato d’Asti served simply with butter cookies or a slice of pound cake — or just on its own.

One of the best Moscato d’Asti producers is the es tate called Elio Perrone; the son, Stefano, is now the winemaker. Two bottlings are offered: Sourgal and Clarté. Both are superb, with Sourgal offering more zip while Clarté is deeper and richer. You simply can’t go wrong with either. Whichever one you find, grab it. Prices are $16 and $18 respectively.