Pair of 8s is named for its Upper West Side cross street, but also for a poker hand with potential. But that compelling metaphor doesn’t go far: The restaurant, to its detriment, takes very few gambles.

Bill Peet and Ron Didner were chef and manager, respectively, at Cafe des Artistes until they split off together and opened Pair of 8s in the former Les Routiers space. Any cozy vestiges of the popular bistro have been torn out. The generic, lobbyish decor of the new space is broken only by an incongruous false ceiling of colorless planks so weathered they almost threaten to shed splinters onto the plates below. In this uncozy environment, Mr. Peet cooks a feast of solid American dishes with just a whiff of inventiveness. The ingredients stand out more than the recipes do; his combinations of flavors are very sound but only occasionally exciting.

Mere steps from the fishy wonders of Barney Greengrass, Mr. Peet boldly smokes his own well-marbled salmon ($10) over applewood, just enough to give it mellifluous woody punch without filling the mouth with smoke. A delicate, full-flavored salad ($11) combines savory little coins of rare-cooked lamb with bits of creamily pungent Stilton, in a thicket of peppery cress. Outstripping the other starters by far, though, is a triad of jumbo shrimp ($13) that, after a brief pass through the smoker that firms and sweetens their flesh, take a turn on a hot grill, which imparts in its turn a succulent bite to their shells. A modicum of tangy roasted tomato sauce rounds it all out.

If everything on the menu had the power and balance of these lovely crustaceans, there would be a line out the door. Unfortunately there are a few too many items like the squid salad ($11): two baby squids, char-grilled till they’re tender but without much flavor. They’re dressed up with bits of prosciutto and melon, resulting in an odd dish that would be better without its main ingredient. Duck confit salad ($9) also falls short of its potential by skimping, unforgivably, on duck.

The main-course offerings are unexceptional in their range – salmon, scallops, a steak – but in many cases, startlingly skillful preparation makes them special. Loin of venison ($27) has a peppery crust and profoundly flavorful meat, with none of the dryness that can plague venison. Sides of juicy red cabbage and sweet-potato puree amplify the plate’s colorful, wintery mood. The restaurant’s take on skate ($22) keeps the bar high: The flour dredged fish has a brilliant clean flavor, accentuated by succulent mushrooms and a bed of pale-green tagliatelle with the perceptibly vegetal bite of arugula.

But the excellent-sounding wild striped bass with cockles and prosciutto crisps ($23) turns out to be a beautiful pale fish filet set in a painfully salty, leeky bath. The shreds of ham give color accents but not much taste, and the modish mollusks’ cameo appearance doesn’t add much to the dish. Rotating nightly specials include a honey-brined pork chop ($21) on Thursdays; while “neighborhood” Mondays offer a varying $25 prix-fixe menu of two courses and a glass of wine.

Wine is a major part of the Pair of 8s experience, at least in concept, but the staff takes little interest in the subject beyond handing over the well-curated 110-bottle, 45-glass list. The energetic servers perkily disregard questions about pairings and specifics. A couple of flights help one explore the cellar. One of them, inspired by an alphabetic approach to varietals, consists of a beautiful sparkling Marques de Monistrol cava ($9/$36) made from xarello grapes (as well as parellada and macabeo), a darkly fruity xynomavro from Macedonia’s Voyatzi ($12/$48), and Lustau’s raisiny sherry ($15/glass), made from Pedro Ximenez grapes. Served in series, at $15 for three half-glasses or $30 for full ones, the X-wines seem tailor-made for a great meal of the shrimp, the venison, and perhaps some bread pudding.

Said bread pudding ($8) is a substantial affair, made from brioche and plenty of dark chocolate, and served hot from the oven. A light, creamy peanut butter sauce can be poured over it for added impact. Other desserts – pumpkin pot de creme ($7), profiteroles ($8) – for all the servers’ expansive praise, are just serviceably tasty.

Pair of 8s is working so far, filled night after night with locals grateful for a chance to splurge. But its role in the neighborhood is unclear: a little pricey for everyday dining, and a little short of special-occasion quality. To win out, the restaurant needs either a handful of aces or a couple more solid eights.

Pair of 8s, 568 Amsterdam Ave., between 87th and 88th streets, 212-874-2742.