The Ice Cream Cometh

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The New York Sun

Short of running through sprinkler, the best way for children to cool off is with a visit from the ice-cream truck. But when we grow up, some things — such as those annoying jingles — lose their ability to charm, while others — such as popsicles and ice cream bars — never lose their appeal. That may explain in part why this summer, a new anti-noise law has quieted the jingles, while at the same time, New York chefs are whipping up refreshing desserts that recall ice-cream truck favorites.

It doesn’t take long to outgrow Sno-cones. The sticky, sickly sweet Technicolor syrup poured over shaved ice tastes sweet and artificial. But at Fireside (Omni Berkshire Place Hotel, 21 E. 52nd St., between Madison and Fifth avenues, 212-754-5011), chef Sam DeMarco has re-engineered the Sno-cone to create cooling treats that both children and adults will love. Instead of a paper cone, he serves a large bowl heaped with shaved ice in a variety of fresh fruit flavors including cherries jubilee (with kirsch and pinot noir syrup), piña colada (with or without rum) and lychee (vodka optional).

For the restaurant’s fruit cocktail “Snow-Cone” ($8), simple syrup infused with white Zinfandel is poured over the ice and delicate pieces of seasonal fruit — at the moment, mango, pineapple, blueberries, watermelon, orange and honeydew. This is a sno-cone you eat with a spoon, but it’s so light you can’t feel guilty about eating it. For those who prefer their frozen treat on a stick, there’s a baked Alaska pop ($5) composed of yellow cake and vanilla ice cream, surrounded by toasty brown meringue and a thin layer of chocolate.

Chef Anita Lo of Annisa (13 Barrow St., between Bleecker and West 4th streets, 212-741-6699, www.annisarestaurant.com) offers bite-size frozen ices anchored on toothpicks in soursop, papaya, mamey, lychee, and other tropical fruit flavors — but nothing that will turn your lips blue. They are served instead of petits fours at the end of a meal.

At Stanton Social (99 Stanton St., between Ludlow and Orchard streets, 212-995-0099), pastry chef Jaime Sudberg reimagines the classic strawberry shortcake as an ice-cream sundae. Strawberry ice cream alternates with crispy crumbled homemade buttermilk biscuit, topped with vivid pink-red strawberry sauce, vanilla whipped cream, and toasted almonds ($9). In a similar vein, Chef Bill Peet of Patroon (160 E. 46th St., between Lexington and Third avenues, 212-883-7373) presents the orange creamsicle bombe ($10), a fetching dome of buttermilk ice cream encased in orange ice cream.

If your favorite ice-cream pop was covered with chocolate crunch, the pastry chef at Abboccato (136 W. 55th St., between Fifth and Sixth avenues, 212-265-4000), Revital Melech, has a dessert for you: the very sophisticated pistachio ice cream sundae ($9) is composed of dark chocolate sponge cake coated with milk chocolate crunch and scoops of homemade pistachio ice cream, topped with unsweetened whipped cream, more chocolate crunch, and Sicilian pistachio sauce.

While the white peach and chocolate mint parfait ($9) at Amalia (204 W. 55th St. at Seventh Avenue, 212-245-1234) may not immediately remind you of Carvel’s frozen layered ice cream in a plastic seethrough cup, the dessert is a playful deconstruction of the basic concept. Instead of an electric red maraschino cherry and nuts on top, the dessert is finished with slushy-thick sherry-infused cherry granite and brilliant salty-sweet Marcona almond brittle. But what really makes this dessert clever is that there’s no cocoa — the chocolate flavor comes from a type of mint known as chocolate mint.

Pichet Ong offers a futuristic twist on the old-fashioned ice-cream sandwich: a miso semifreddo and extra virgin olive oil Castella (Japanese sponge cake) sandwich with wasabi candy and strawberries ($12) at P*ong (150 W. 10th St. at Waverly Place, 212-929-0898). The salty, partially frozen cream sandwiched between tender white cake is deliciously offset by mint oil and served with a pile of marinated sliced strawberries.

At the Canadian-owned Inn LW12 (7 Ninth Ave. at Little West 12th Street, 212-206-0300), British chef Andy Bennett takes a classic British ice cream shop sundae, Knickerbocker Glory, and adds maple syrup to the mix of vanilla ice cream, rhubarb jelly, fresh strawberries, and macadamia nuts, to give it a Canadian twist ($12). And over at Hudson River Cafe (697 W. 133rd St. at 12th Avenue, 212-491-9111), chef Ricardo Cardona swaps hot fudge for creamy caramel dulce de leche over three scoops of ice cream ($8).

There’s no better way to cool off without getting wet.


The New York Sun

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