Fans of the hallowed-temple style of sushi restaurant will be puzzled at Zakuro, the latest addition to East 9th Street’s Japanese scene. Flirty waiters, a DJ booth behind the sushi bar, and food that ranges from classic to downright silly keep the mood light indeed. It’s not raucously hip like the blacklit Avenue A Sushi (where executive chef Toki Numasawa worked previously); it’s just casual and comfortable. The big-windowed corner spot used to be a Starbucks, and appears not to have fully finished its transformation. Apart from a giant colorful landscape painting, the walls, in royal blue and glowing rose, are largely bare; that sparse effect is particularly noticeable early in the week, when the blond-wood seats are mostly empty.

The name – which means “pomegranate” in Japanese – hints at the European touches in the cuisine. Mr. Numasawa’s clean-flavored food steers clear of Europe’s complexity or subtlety. Turning the tables on those chefs who dress up their European dishes with wasabi aioli, this chef borrows only select flavors and applies them with satisfying finesse. The menu is divided between cooked and raw dishes. The latter category includes a few standbys, like grilled edamame ($5) and shrimp tempura ($8.50), as well as a number of less usual treats. A succulent piece of black cod ($10), for example, is coated in sweet white miso and neatly roasted so the edges of the filet have a savory char while the center is pale and delicate. A pair of large oysters ($8) in half-shells arrive at the table enveloped in a blue flame. The flame subsides to reveal the creamy mollusks, baked with a breadcrumb coating. And salty, succulent chicken wings ($5.50) come grilled Japanese pub-style on skewers, a smoky, appetizing start to a meal.

All the culinary cleverness in the world doesn’t go far without ingredients to back it up; Zakuro’s selection of tartares and carpaccios nicely highlights the excellent quality of the fish. Tartares of tuna, salmon, and yellowtail are $9.50 apiece or $25 for the trio. They are simple cylinders of coarse-chopped fish of high quality – especially the salmon – mixed with subtle flavoring elements including pungent shiso leaves and the namesake pomegranate juice. A raw quail egg is provided for those who like to emulsify their tartares. A more complex (but not as rewarding) tartare ($7.50) comes in three layers of tuna, avocado, and sushi rice seasoned with balsamic vinegar. Carpaccios (each $9.50) include one of tuna with an odd sour umami topping of tan gelatin pieces that, all in all, detracts. A carpaccio of delicate sea scallops, though, is decidedly enhanced by the bright-orange, faintly sweet cod roe that tops it.

Main courses center around sushi in pre-formatted packages or a la carte. A sushi platter runs $18.50; sashimi $22; and sushi for two is $44. But those who opt for these miss out on much of what makes the restaurant unusual; namely, a small selection of specialty rolls that shows the sushi bar’s sense of humor. The di Parma roll ($10) wraps fresh mozzarella and roasted red peppers with arugula – a little rice in the roll is the only hint your mouth gets that it’s in a Japanese restaurant and not the Italian deli up the street. The La vie en rose roll ($8.50) does a similar trick, this time with brie, tomato, and smoked salmon. The same salmon can (and should) be ordered solo as well – it’s smoked very lightly, just enough to firm it without overwhelming the fish with a heady smoke flavor. Other preparations, like spicy scallop rolls, stand out as well; the rest of the fish lineup – meaty toro, keen uni, buttery yellowtail – is just a bit above average.

The menu lists a few cooked entrees, including beef tenderloin ($19) and chicken teriyaki ($15), but the best is an odd meuniere ($18.50). A few shrimps and scallops are dusted in flour, fried, and served on a layer of cooked spinach in a buttery sauce dotted with vegetables. It’s delicious and subtly different from the food of any continent we’re accustomed to.

For dessert, the restaurant offers the usual green tea ice cream ($3 for a plain scoop), but, as might be expected, spruces it up for the East Village audience as well. A thick pyramid of tempura batter encloses the mild ice cream, which is doused in a tart raspberry sauce; at the table, the server pours flaming liqueur over it.

It’s not often that a house cocktail at a sushi joint with a DJ is worth talking about, but Zakuro’s drinks (all $9) uphold the kitchen’s standard of freshness, particularly the super-limey mojito and a potent pomegranate-juice margarita. Sakes, including the familiar Shirayuki ($5 for a large glass), Sapporo beer ($5), and a small choice of wines, including Steele’s juicy pinot blanc ($33 a bottle), provide serviceable liquid accompaniment to the food as well.

Restaurants this playful sometimes forego quality, but here, unexpected attention to detail like superbly cut fish, a custom blend of soy sauce, and fine-tuned service keep everything just a notch above. It won’t be anybody’s only sushi destination, but it’s a solid alternative to the mainstream.

Zakuro, 143 Second Ave. at 9th Street, 212-505-5625.