It’s All in the Kraut
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

A hot dog a day might keep the doctor away this cold and flu season – if the hot dog is covered in sauerkraut, that is. According to a BBC report, when scientists in Korea fed an extract of kimchi, the Korean version of sauerkraut, to 13 chickens infected with avian flu, 11 of them recovered a week later. If the humble fermented cabbage can cure avian flu, what can it do for the common cold? Even if it’s not a cure-all, sauerkraut offers plenty of ways to add a bite of prevention to wintertime dishes.
Like fresh cabbage, sauerkraut is high in vitamin C, iron, disease-fighting cruciferous phytochemicals, and fiber, but the fermentation process supercharges its immunityboosting properties. When sauerkraut and kimchi are fermented, beneficial bacteria produce lactic acid, which has been shown to fight infection. A recent study in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry reported that fermentation produces unique anti-cancer compounds, too.
The health benefits to kimchi and sauerkraut have been known, to some degree, for centuries. Fermented cabbage fueled the workers who built the Great Wall of China more than 2,000 years ago, and the notion eventually spread through Europe (especially Germany) and then to America. “The Old Farmer’s Almanac” has included sauerkraut remedies for more than 200 years.
But just as sauerkraut’s medicinal uses have largely been forgotten in this country, so has its culinary appeal. Most modern-day sauerkraut is a slushy yellowish slaw in a plastic bag in the meat section of the supermarket. Because it’s been pasteurized for longer shelf life, it’s lost much of its flavor and crunch. One would need a high level of pandemic paranoia to eat the stuff.
Raw sauerkraut, on the other hand, would convert even the most die-hard sauerkrautphobes. And it’s likely to be even more healthful than the bagged stuff, too. The Korean scientists who conducted the study showed that the beneficial bacteria in fermented cabbage helps make it healthful – and that bacteria is eliminated when the cabbage is cooked. So it’s worth seeking out raw sauerkraut (often available in health food stores) to reap maximum benefits.
If it’s been awhile since you’ve tasted a truly delicious kraut, now’s the time to get back in the saddle. Draped over sausages simmered for an hour or two, sauerkraut becomes nutty and almost luscious while adding a welcome touch of tartness. Smoked sausages like Polish kielbasa and rich meats like country ribs stand up to the pickled flavor best.
Sauerkraut also tames creamy dishes. A half cup added to a potato gratin lends a pleasant bite. A rich broccoli or cauliflower soup with a small spoonful of kraut instead of chopped chives improves the flavor. You can even twirl some around a fork to dip into cheese fondue.
But sauerkraut is also great uncooked and used as a pickle.The classic Reuben uses the cabbage in balance. Also, sauerkraut can stand in almost anytime that a pickle is called for: It can replace cornichon alongside strongly flavored cured meats like soppresatta. You can skip the lettuce on spicy pork or lamb burgers if you use it in place of sliced pickles.
Good fermented cabbage can also be the star of the show. For a healthier version of fried rice, with twice the flavor, fold it into warm brown rice with bits of scrambled egg, sauteed shitake mushrooms, carrots, and onions, and a drizzle of soy sauce and sesame oil. Whatever way you take it, fermented cabbage might just be your ticket to a healthy winter.