They say style is often valued over substance. If that’s true, the pumpkin is just one more fashion victim – particularly in this country. The pumpkin owes its popularity more to its charming exterior than its contents, and with good reason. The watery, stringy flesh of most supermarket pumpkins hardly whets the appetite. When the urge for nutty, sweet smoothness strikes, we usually turn to the usual suspects: sweet potatoes and butternut or acorn squash.

Overseas, though, the pumpkin is eaten with a passion – in sweet as well as savory dishes. Why? Because markets are filled with pumpkin varieties that have been bred for flavor, not looks. Their compact flesh, sweet nuttiness, and vibrant color inspire cooking rather than carving. Flavorful pumpkin varieties can stand up to the most pungent of seasonings: the Chinese toss them with black bean sauce, South Indians saute them with chiles and curry leaves, and the Japanese simmer them with dashi.

But French chefs know how to romance the pumpkin like no one else. Masters of smooth texture and delicate seasonings, the French draw out the pure richness of varieties such as potimarron or rouge vif d’etampes. The former has a delicate flavor of chestnuts along with smooth, rich flesh, and it takes its name from the combination of the French word for pumpkin, potiron, and the word for chestnut, marron. Rouge Vif d’Etampes, also known as the Cinderella or cheese pumpkin, is easily recognized by its shape: It looks just like the pumpkin that turned into Cinderella’s coach. Its flesh is buttery and flavorful, but it can be hard to slice. To make the initial break, just drop it on a hard surface and allow it to crack.

Kabocha, a knobby, green squash, has become popular in New York restaurants. It’s great for simmered dishes because the flesh is dense and holds together well. It’s also useful when diced and cooked for galettes and pies. The “sugar” pumpkin – also known as the “pie” pumpkin – is good for just that, and as a bonus, it usually comes in a manageable size.

These gourds stand out brilliantly (without the distraction of pie spices) in recipes like a silky, bright orange potage au potiron, or pumpkin soup, topped with small croutons fried in butter and a sprinkle of minced chives. For this soup, the chopped pumpkin is steamed to preserve its flavor, then pureed and mixed with cream and a whisper of freshly grated nutmeg. When passed through a fine sieve, the texture becomes even more refined – worthy of a dinner party as much as a lunchtime nosh.

But pumpkin really steps up in a light-as-air souffle. When baked in a big gratin dish, it shakes off its intimidating air. Intended to gently puff rather than rise to the rafters, this souffle is fluffy enough to melt on your tongue. And a pumpkin version works even better for dinner than dessert, especially when flavored with some nutty Gruyere or Comte cheese.

Pumpkin varieties for these recipes can be found in the fall at farmer’s markets and better food shops. So carve your pumpkins, yes. But eat the tasty ones, too.

Souffle de Potiron (Pumpkin Souffle)
Serves 4-6

2 1/2 pounds flavorful pumpkin (see sidebar), peeled, seeded, and cut into large chunks
1 cup whole milk
3 eggs
2 tablespoons creme fraiche or sour cream
1/2 cup grated Comte or Gruyere cheese
A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1. Place the pumpkin chunks and milk into a medium saucepan and simmer over medium-low heat until tender, about 20-25 minutes. Drain the pumpkin, transfer to a mixing bowl, and mash into a puree. Let cool.

2. Preheat the oven to 475-F. Butter and flour a 4-cup capacity gratin dish.

3. Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs into two separate bowls. Set the whites aside and add the yolks to the pumpkin puree, along with the creme fraiche and grated cheese. Mix well and season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper to taste.

4. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt to stiff peaks, then fold the egg whites into the pumpkin mixture. 5 Pour into the gratin dish and bake for 5 minutes, then lower temperature to 350-F and bake for 10-15 more minutes, until golden brown. Serve right away.

Creme de Potiron (Creamy Pumpkin Soup)
Serves 6

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 4-pound flavorful pumpkin (see sidebar for varieties), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch chunks
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste Freshly ground white pepper to taste
1 cup homemade or canned low-salt chicken broth
1 1/2 cups light cream (preferably not ultra-pasteurized)
Salt and white pepper to taste
Freshly grated nutmeg to taste

FOR TOPPING
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 slices firm, good quality sandwich bread, crusts removed
3 tablespoons minced fresh chives

1. In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the pumpkin chunks and saute, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add 1/2 cup of water and a teaspoon of salt, then cover and cook the pumpkin for 20-25 minutes, until tender.

2. Meanwhile, make the croutons. Cut the crustless bread into very small cubes. Heat the 1 1/2 tablespoons of butter in a small skillet over medium-low heat, then add the bread cubes and cook, gently tossing, allowing the bread to absorb the butter and gradually become golden brown and crisp. Remove the croutons to a small bowl.

3. When the pumpkin is cooked, let it cool slightly, and then pass the pumpkin through the fine disk of a food mill (or puree the cooked pumpkin in a food processor or blender until smooth). 4 Transfer the puree to a soup pot, and then stir in the broth, cream, and milk. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, and adjust the seasonings. Add a bit of grated nutmeg and serve topped with the croutons and chives.