Kitchen Dish
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.
A GOOD MULLET Keep your eyes on the space once occupied by Patria (250 Park Avenue South at 20th Street). The owners of Sushi Samba, in conjunction with Simon Oren, who owns Nice Matin and Marseille, plan to open Barbounia there. Named for a red mullet from the Mediterranean Sea, Barbounia’s menu – still a work in progress – will reflect the cuisine of the countries visited by that fish. The opening date has been pushed back, but the owners are hoping to start serving in late November.
GREEK FISH If you want to eat red mullet but can’t wait until late November, check out Ammos (52 Vanderbilt Ave. at 45th Street), which will open on November 14 and will feature regional Greek cuisine. Among the specialties to be offered by chef Christos Christou is pan-fried barbounia with garlic-almond sauce and steamed beet leaves, a dish from Greece’s Ionian islands. Also available are steak with feta stuffed tomatoes, a dish from Thessaloniki, and langoustine with white wine broth and aged haloumi cheese from Epirus.
FOUR SEASONS UPDATE The revamped Lobby Restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel ( 57 E. 57th St., between Park and Madison avenues, 212-758-5700) started serving dinner yesterday. The hotel’s Grand Lobby, where the restaurant and Lobby Lounge are located, was redesigned by architect Pierre Yves-Rochon in collaboration with the hotel’s original architect, I.M. Pei. At the new 75-seat restaurant, you can dine on the culinary stylings of the hotel’s executive chef, Brook Vosika, who will serve more casual fare than what’s on offer at the hotel’s 5757 restaurant. The lounge serves cocktails and hors d’oeuvres from 5-10 p.m. From 2-5 p.m., it serves high tea, during which you can enjoy finger sandwiches and loose-leaf teas for $46 a person.
CHEAP EATS If your budget is more suited to $5.95 for a basket of two hot dogs with fries, stop by Woody McHale’s (234 W 14th St., between Seventh and Eighth avenues, 212-205-0430).This new bar and grill was opened by partners the in Meatpacking district steakhouse Franks, so they know how to get a good deal on meat. Apart from the affordable dogs, Douglas Sokoloff and Steven Molinari are selling $6.95 burgers and $12.95 skirt steak. Also on the menu: a batter-fried Twinkie with hot melted chocolate for $5.95. Ice cream’s $1 extra.
MORE FROM LOTUS The owners of Lotus are running a cocktail-focused bar across the street. The cocktail menu at Double Seven (418 W 14th St. at Ninth Avenue, 212-981-9099) is tweaked and printed daily and might include classics such as the Pimm’s Cup and the Presbyterian, as well as variations of the Caipirinha, Gin Fizz, Mint Julep, and more. On the menu every day is a selection of Debauve & Gallais chocolates. Cocktails are $16; a selection of five chocolates is $15.
Mr. Thorn is food editor of Nation’s Restaurant News. He can be reached at bthorn@nrn.com.