Kitchen Dish
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SWAN SONG New Yorkers have a last chance to sample the food of Christian Delouvrier, former chef of Alain Ducasse at the Essex House and, before that, Lespinasse. Mr. Delouvrier is moving to Florida to open French restaurants with cuisine adapted to the southern climate.
But first, he is cooking a five course tasting menu for three days at Orsay (1057 Lexington Ave. at 75th Street, 212-517-6400) with his friend Jason Hicks, Orsay’s executive chef.
Tonight, tomorrow, and Friday, they will offer ham hocks with parsley, grilled calamari with basil and lemon, traditional French pot-au-feu, prunes in Armagnac, and madeleines for $62. Reservations are available from 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
HUNGARY AT THE HARRISON If you are in the mood for Hungarian food on Friday, the Harrison (355 Greenwich St., between Franklin and Harrison streets, 212-274-9310) will be hosting Budapest chef Tibor Rosenstein, who will be offering items such as Hortobagyi palacsinta, a type of crepe from Hortobagy village, for $12; Kaposztas tesztaval toltott kacsa, birsalmaval es vorosborban pacolt aszaltszilvaval, duck stuffed with cabbage and noodles and served with quince and prunes poached in red wine, for $28; and of course Alfoldi gulyas, or Alfoldi-style goulash, for $26.
For dessert, you can sample Maglyarakas, bread pudding with apples, walnuts, and apricots, for $8.
Chef Brian Bistrong’s regular menu will be available, too.
FRESH CHEF Ribot (780 Third Ave. at 48th Street, 212-355-3700) has a new chef. Jeremy Griffiths most recently was at Scrimshaw in Greenport, N.Y., and before that he was chef at Il Buco. At Ribot he is dishing up an array of Mediterranean-influenced dishes, including hachis parmentier, a type of Moroccan shepherd’s pie, but with duck and celery root-potato puree. Tuscan ribollita soup, and southern Italian bucatini alla carbonaraalso are on offer.
SPRING THAI Joya (215 Court St., between Wyckoff and Warren streets, Brooklyn, 718-222-3484) and Song (295 Fifth Av e., between 1st and 2nd streets, Brooklyn, 718-865-1108), two Thai restaurants in Brooklyn owned by musician Ariel Aparicio, have added menu items for the spring. They include grilled pork chops with chile, basil, and a mango garnish for $10.95; crispy duck in spicy orange dressing for $12.95; fried catfish fillet with green papaya salad for $10.95, and whole fried sea bass stuffed with mango, cashews, and pineapple for $13.95.
COFFEE TALK If you have been meaning to improve your knowledge of single-origin coffees – make a reservation at Joe (141 Waverly Pl. at Gay St., 212-924-7400) on Tuesday to attend a primer on the topic. For $10 you can sample Don Telmo Reserva coffee from a farm in Bucaramanga, Colombia; Kalledevarapura Estate coffee from Mysore, India; and a Kenya AA from Kiamana in that country.
Mr. Thorn is food editor at Nation’s Restaurant News. He can be reached at bthorn@nrn.com.