Kitchen Dish

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The New York Sun


New Yorker Christopher Lee — who had worked at Oceana, Daniel, and Jean-Georges before moving to Striped Bass in Philadelphia — is coming home. He is replacing Paul Liebrandt at the Palace Hotel’s embattled Gilt (455 Madison Ave., between 50th and 51st streets, 212-891-8100). After sluggish business and mixed press, management is taking the restaurant in a less experimental direction and will be serving “modern American” food.

“The hotel decided to change the direction of Gilt and I and my sous chefs have parted ways with Gilt,” Mr. Liebrandt said. He now is looking to open his own restaurant elsewhere in the city.

The jackets-for-gentlemen requirement will be dropped when the restaurant reopens for limited service September 5, following the kitchen’s summer vacation. The bar has remained open.

Mr. Lee was named one of this year’s 10 “Best New Chefs” by Food & Wine magazine and last year won the prestigious Rising Star award from the James Beard Foundation. He will offer a limited menu to begin with, but his fully revamped menu, including prix-fixe and tasting menus, will debut in all its glory in early October. He also will introduce a bar menu.

“I’m not going to try to replace Paul,” Mr. Lee said, noting that they have different styles. “I cook for the people. We’re going to have fun, we’re going to have great food. We really want to be a great all-around restaurant.”

Jason Ferris remains the restaurant’s sommelier, and Gilt’s tea menu, one of the city’s most elaborate, remains in place.


Starting this Monday, Dos Caminos Soho (475 West Broadway at Houston Street, 212-277-4300), will be showing all U.S. Open matches on its projection screen. The restaurant will open at 10:30 a.m. to prepare for 11 a.m. matches, which will be shown inside. Evening matches, which start at 7 p.m., will be shown outside in the café. On weekdays, the restaurant also will be offering a prix-fixe lunch menu for $24.07. Options for the menu include sweet corn gazpacho with cilantro crema and crispy Serrano ham, and grilled leg of lam quesadilla with avocado, Oaxaca cheese, smoked chile paste, and beet chips.


Orsay (1057 Lexington Ave. at 75th Street, 212-517-6400) is holding the first of a series of wild game dinners tonight and tomorrow with a dinner featuring Scottish grouse. Grouse season begins annually in Scotland on August 12, when birds are flushed from the moors, shot, and either aged for several weeks or express-shipped to high-end restaurants. Grouse is the only bird that is hunted and served (legally) in American restaurants. Chef Jason Hicks’s five-course tasting menu, paired with wines, is $150.


Riingo (205 E. 45th St., between Lexington and 3rd avenues, 212-867-4200) is offering a sushi bento box special at dinner for the rest of the month.

For $50 you get miso soup and salad, six pieces of the chef’s selection of nigiri sushi, 2 sushi rolls selected by the chef, and a carafe of Green Ridge sake.

Mr. Thorn is food editor of Nation’s Restaurant News. He maintains

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