Kitchen Dish

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SWEDISH SWITCH

Aquavit (65 E. 55th St., between Park and Madison avenues, 212-307-7311) has a new executive chef. Nils Noren, who used to run the kitchen there for chef-owner Marcus Samuelsson and his business partner, Håken Swahn, now is vice president of culinary arts at the French Culinary Institute in SoHo. Replacing him is Johan Svensson, who used to be the executive chef at Mr. Samuelsson’s and Mr. Swahn’s other restaurant, Riingo (205 E. 45th St., between Second and Third avenues, 212-867-4200).

Down at Riingo, the new executive chef is Jimmy Lappalainen. The former Aquavit line cook most recently was chef de cuisine at Frederick’s and Frederick’s Lounge, both in Midtown.

Neither Mr. Svensson nor Mr. Lappalainen plan to make any major changes to their menus.

GOOD CHARLOTTE

Charlotte, the signature restaurant of the Millennium Broadway hotel (145 W. 44th St. between Sixth Avenue and Broadway, 212-768-4400) is switching its focus from being a lounge with some food to a place where people might actually want to dine before seeing “Mamma Mia” or “Jersey Boys.” The new chef, Brendan Slaven, has been instructed to focus on the pre-theater crowd while also trying to develop some lunch traffic.

The restaurant now will focus on seasonal cuisine, and the new dinner menu, launched over the weekend, includes roasted chicken and sweet potato agnolotti with spiced cream and toasted pumpkin seeds, and Moroccan-scented rack of lamb with beet couscous, dried dates, toasted almonds, baby vegetables, and kumquats.

Mr. Slaven said the chicken was an instant hit. So were the khadayif-wrapped shrimp with baby arugula salad, goat cheese stuffed cherry tomatoes, walnut pesto, and balsamic drizzle.

A special pre-theater menu will be launched some time in the next week-and-a-half, to be followed by an express lunch menu.

Mr. Slaven most recently was chef at the Glen Cove Mansion Hotel and Conference Center in Glen Cove, N.Y.

HEIRLOOM HEIR

Core 191 (191 Orchard St., between Houston and Stanton streets, 212-228-9888) has opened quietly where Matthew Kenney’s Heirloom once stood. Chef Stephan Boissel is focusing on small plates. Some dishes reflect his experience at traditional French restaurants in New York (La Côte Basque and L’Absinthe), such as the baby frisée salad with quail egg and lardons ($7). Others show influence from his recent stint as chef de partie under Paul Liebandt at Gilt, such as tuna crudo with orange confit, olive oil sorbet, and praline pecan ($10).

The wine list is a work in progress as the owners are still working on shedding the contents of Heirloom’s cellar.

UPTOWN GARDEN

Abdul Gofran, who used to cook at Curry Leaf in Murray Hill, has moved uptown and teamed up with Anthony Gomez, formerly of Raga in Midtown, to open Masala Garden (226 W. 79th St., between Broadway and Amsterdam Avenue, 212-362-1767). The restaurant features regional Indian food, ranging from northern tandoori preparations to southern dosas. It is BYO at the moment, but Mr. Abdul has applied for a liquor license.

HAPPY HOURS TIMES FIVE

F&B Güdtfood (150 E. 52nd St., between Lexington and Third avenues, 212-421-8600, and 269 W. 23rd St., between Seventh and Eighth avenues, 646-486-4411), an upscale fast-food restaurant specializing in hot dogs and salads, has launched a happy hour, or rather five of them. From 4 p.m. until closing time at 9 p.m., 12-ounce Stella Artois drafts are $2.

Mr. Thorn is food editor of Nation’s Restaurant News. He maintains nrnfoodwriter.blogspot.com.


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