Let Us Eat Cake
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

Just in time to subvert your New Year’s resolutions comes a decadent, buttery treat: Galette des Rois, the traditional dessert served on the Day of Epiphany. The holiday, celebrated on January 6, marks the end of the 12 days of Christmas and is also referred to as the Feast of the Kings.
From now until January 9, the rustic French restaurant Gavroche (212 W. 14th St., 212-647-8553), in the West Village, is serving the sumptuous dessert – a dense pie made of heavenly frangipane (almond cream) baked in thin layers of flaky puff pastry. Chef-owner Phillip Roussel uses his father’s recipe, which yields a pie so rich it will make you close your eyes and enjoy several epiphanies.
“My father was a chef, and I remember him making it for the restaurant,” said Mr. Roussel.
Traditionally, the baker of the pie inserts a small china figurine into the batter; whoever finds the toy in their slice is crowned king or queen for the day. But Mr. Roussel has had to change with the times. “They don’t make the figures anymore. So I put in an almond,” he said.
Gavroche is selling Galettes des Rois that serve six to eight ($42), as well as individual slices ($7.50), during lunch and dinner service. At Fauchon (442 Park Ave., 212-308-5919), the treats are made with either almond or pistachio cream, but either way, a small ceramic Fauchon shopping bag is baked in. A cake that serves eight is $40 and an individual slice is $7. For the next two weeks, the downtown Financier Patisserie (62 Stone St., 212-344-5600) is offering the dessert in two sizes: one that serves eight ($18), and another that serves 10 to 12 ($22), as well as by the slice ($3). The treat is also available at Payard Patisserie & Bistro (1032 Lexington Ave., 212-717-5252) for the entire month of January in servings for four ($20), six ($30), eight ($40), or 10 ($50). All come complete with a paper crown for the lucky royal.