With new barbecue outlets opening in the city on what seems like a weekly basis, it’s easy to forget that barbecue tends to be a very inconsistent affair. Even in the South, it’s rare to find a ‘cuery that does more than one thing really well – one might specialize in, say, brisket, and another in pulled pork, but good luck finding one that can deliver the goods up and down its entire menu.

I try to keep that in mind when assessing New York barbecue. So what if the food at Paul Kirk’s R.U.B. is spotty after you get past the magnificent burnt ends? Those burnt ends alone are enough to justify the place’s existence. Same goes for the salt-and-pepper beef ribs at Blue Smoke.

I’m particularly willing to cut a barbecue joint some slack if its best item is pork spareribs, which have been a notorious New York weak spot for generations. For years I’ve been saying, “The best ribs in New York are right where they’ve always been – at your local Chinese takeout place.” But that might be changing now, thanks in part to Sawa BBQ (617 Ninth Ave., between 43rd and 44th streets, 212-757-0305), a small, takeout-only storefront that recently opened in Hell’s Kitchen.

Sawa is the namesake operation of Takashi Sawa, who hails from Japan and previously ran a barbecue restaurant in Maryland. Neither of those locations has ever been mistaken for a barbecue stronghold, and Sawa’s decor – bamboo-patterned wallpaper, little origami sculptures on the counter – certainly won’t do much to change that.But his spareribs,cooked in a gas oven with a smoker-box attachment, just might. The texture, firm but not tough, is just right, the surface is dry-rubbed instead of sauced, and the flavor is an interesting mix of smoke and Asian spices. It makes for a lip-smacking meal ($13 for a half rack, including two sides, or $7 for a smaller portion as part of a lunch special).

Mr. Sawa said he hopes to open another outlet on the east side if this one does well, but he has a few things to work out first. His side dishes and chicken are pedestrian, his beef ribs are a gristly mess, his barbecue sauce tastes like it’s straight out of the Kraft bottle (it’s served on the side, mercifully), and his fruit pies are essentially cornstarch in between cardboard. But oh, those ribs – they make up for all that and more.

Unfortunately, since Sawa only does takeout, it’s an impractical option unless you live or work nearby. Happily, another good rib outlet has recently emerged, although it’s not exactly in a high-traffic area: Pioneer Bar-B-Q (318 Van Brunt St. at Pioneer Street, Brooklyn, 718-624-0700), a Red Hook bar and grill that opened last year and recently installed a small smoker in the kitchen and began turning out barbecue.

The star of the show, once again, is the ribs ($14, including two sides). Pioneer’s version features a peppery outer crust and just a kiss of smoke. Personally, I’d prefer a bit more smokiness (and I might just say so the next time I’m there, because the owners are personable and open to feedback), but this is still a lot better than most of the ribs being served around town.

Be sure to get a side of French fries, which are absolutely the best – the best – I’ve tasted in years. It’s easy to see why, too: Most restaurants these days, including some high-end places, use frozen fries, but peer into Pioneer’s small open kitchen and you’ll see a potato slicer mounted on the wall and bucket full of sliced spuds soaking in cold water, to break down their starches. The result is spectacular basket of fries that almost overshadows the ribs. Which means Pioneer is the rare barbecue joint that does more than one thing well.