When I first began writing about wine several decades ago, no one warned me about a certain professional pitfall: You won’t fall in love with a wine quite as easily as you once did.

At the beginning of one’s wine journey – and I include all devoted wine drinkers in this, not just professional scribblers – you are subject to what can only be called puppy love.You never forget your first La Tache. Or your first great German riesling. Or a revelatory red Bordeaux or California cabernet. Like Ira and George Gershwin, you hug yourself with amazed pleasure, wondering, “How long has this been going on?” The answer, of course, is: a lot longer than you.

So, like book or music lovers on similar journeys of delicious discovery, you (literally) drink deeply of civilization. You become ardent about riesling or pinot noir or cabernet sauvignon. You declare your undying devotion to a wine or a region, only to promiscuously fawn over another site or producer the next day.

Inevitably, your ardor cools. This takes years, decades even. Been there, loved that. It’s not so much that you’ve become a hard (wine) case or even a victim of ennui. Rather, it’s the price of experience. Recently, a 50-something friend of mine in the wine trade nostalgically said, “Remember when we would travel hundreds of miles to taste a La Tache? Gosh, now I say, “Gee, I dunno. I’m kind of busy.’ “

This is an occupational hazard, maybe even a life hazard.After all, you can’t just keep falling in love – even with wine – at every turn. It takes too much out of you.

Nevertheless, allow me to suggest that you might find yourself falling for the following wines. They’re that good, that new, that exciting. What’s love got to do with it? With these two wines, everything. Try them and you’ll see for yourself.

HERE’S THE (LOVE) DEAL

PAZO SENORANS ALBARINO “RIAS BAIXAS” 2004 OR 2005 Spain’s Rias Baixas (ree-ahs bye-shuss) district, which occupies the northwestern corner of the country, north of Portugal, is my latest wine amor.

What’s Rias Baixas albarino got that’s so come-hither? For one (important) thing, it tastes like no other dry white wine from anywhere. These days that’s no small thing, what with the increasing standardization of taste of so many wines from so many countries. (Oak is oak is oak, as Gertrude Stein might have said.)

Albarinos from Rias Baixas don’t have any oak – at least I’ve yet to taste one that did. The grape variety itself is therefore allowed to shine. What’s luminously on display is a crisp, minerally, sometimes herbal wine that offers scents of green apples, melons, citrus such as lime, and even a vague note of honey, among other features. All this is delivered deftly, with bracing, but not intrusive, acidity. The wine is literally mouthwatering.

Pazo Senorans is one of the leading estates in Rias Baixas. Created by Senora Marisol Bueno, who is president of the Rias Baixas appellation consortium, her first vintage was released only in 1990. Today, Pazo Senorans is widely acclaimed as one of the finest producers in the zone.

What makes Pazo Senorans stand out is its unusual richness compared with other albarinos from the area. The reason is late harvesting. While other producers harvest their grapes for an eventual 11% alcohol, Pazo Senorans waits until the grapes are ripe enough for 12% or 13% alcohol. The resulting wine is denser and richer yet no less refreshing. It is persuasive.

Try either the 2004 or 2005 (both are superb) with all sorts of fish or shellfish. Or it works well as an aperitif with a few salted almonds. This is a dry white that you shouldn’t miss. $22.95.

MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO “CERASUOLO” 2005, TORRE DEI BEATI Cerasuolo is the local name in Italy’s Abruzzo region, on the Adriatic side of the boot, for rose wine. The grape variety called montepulciano is famous for creating intense, luscious reds. Less well known is how conducive it is for rose.

One sip of this flat-out wonderful cerasuolo from the small family producer Torre dei Beati is all you’ll need to fall in love with rose, even if you’re a hard-bitten red wine drinker.

Torre dei Beati’s cerasuolo is made a little differently from other roses. It’s a blend of two different musts or unfermented grape juice. One part comes from montepulciano grapes selected for their higher acidity, which gives structure to the wine.

The second part comes from a “saignee,” or bleeding-off, of juice from montepulciano grapes destined for the regular red wine. Also, it does not undergo a malolactic fermentation, ensuring a bright, refreshing acidity.

This is great rose. It’s a little darker-hued than most roses, but the savor and scent are remarkable, with a rare-in-rose touch of minerality along with a delectable array of berry tastes. Finding this wine will take a bit of looking (Astor Wines has some), but it’s worth the search, as it will be one of the finest roses you’ll drink all summer. I promise you’ll fall in love. $16.