Pie as the Main Course
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

After years of fielding requests for his beloved pie recipes, the owner of Bubby’s Pie Company, chef Ron Silver, has co-authored “Bubby’s Homemade Pies” (Wiley), out this month. The collection offers detailed, easy-to-understand instructions for making flaky, deep-dish delicacies, crumbles, crisps, cobblers, and buckles — just like those served up at Bubby’s TriBeCa and DUMBO locations. Although the title might conjure up images of à la mode desserts, the book devotes a hefty chapter to main courses. Alongside recipes for decadent second acts, such as cappuccino meringue pie, and molasses-apple pandowdy, are those for stick-to-the-rib savory pies, including beef chuck chili pie, lobster empanadas, and lamb cobbler (recipe, below). Pie aficionados can sample some of those dishes on Sunday, September 30, when Bubby’s hosts its fourth annual Brooklyn Pie Social, outside of its Brooklyn restaurant (One Main St. at Plymouth Street, 718-222-0666). Between noon and 3 p.m., the public is invited to bring their crusty creations. In years past, submissions have included a gummy bear pie (from a 6-year-old baker); a cricket pie that Mr. Silver described as “crunchy and salty,” and the chef’s own sweet and savory hybrid, a duck confit pie with roasted figs and blackberry glaze. The possibilities are endless, according to Mr. Silver. “I’m sure there’s something that you can’t put in a pie, but I can’t think of what it is,” he said. Admission to the pie social, which entitles entrants to five slices, is $5 with a pie, or $25 for tasters only.
Lamb Cobbler
Filling
2 pounds lamb shoulder meat, cut into 1 1/2- to 2-inch chunks
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2/3 cup all-purpose flour, divided
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, divided
1 tablespoon canola oil
3 cups chopped onions
2 cloves garlic, roughly sliced
2 to 3 tablespoons fresh thyme
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 cup full-bodied red wine
3 cups chicken stock
1 1/2 cups diced carrots
1 1/2 cup diced parsnips
1 cup diced potatoes
1/2 cup sliced celery or fresh fennel bulb
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
Savory Cheese Scones
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 tablespoons baking powder
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne (or 1/2 teaspoon black pepper)
1/2 cup grated sharp white Cheddar cheese
1 1/2 cups heavy cream, plus extra for brushing on scones
1. Season the lamb with 1 tablespoon salt and 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper.
2. Toss it in 1/3 cup of the flour.
3. In a large sauté pan, heat 4 tablespoons of the butter and the oil over medium high heat. When it’s hot and bubbly, carefully add the lamb.
4. Stir and turn occasionally until it is “really browned” on all sides.
5. Remove from pan, and place on platter. Do not clean the pan.
6. Add onions and garlic to the pan over medium heat. Sauté until golden brown, stirring occasionally.
7. Add thyme and rosemary. To deglaze, turn up heat to medium-high, pour in the wine, and scrape the browned bits on the bottom of the pan.
8. When juices are thickened, transfer contents to a heavy soup pot.
9. Add the stock, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, celery, and lamb to the pot.
10. Simmer uncovered on low heat for about 1 1/2 hours, until the liquid reduces by about one third.
11. To make a blonde roux, melt the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter in a small sauté pan over medium-high heat, and stir in 1/3 cup of flour with a wooden spoon, smashing up any lumps.
12. Stir for a few minutes, or until the roux has an even consistency and looks runny and bubbly. Remove it from heat. (If roux develops any color or scorches, start over).
13. Add roux to the lamb stew mixture, stirring as you add it. Simmer for 20 minutes, during which it should develop a thick, stew-like consistency.
14. Taste and adjust seasonings, then remove pot from heat and add parsley.
15. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
16. In a clean bowl, sift together 3 cups all-purpose flour, baking powder, sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and cayenne to make the scone dough.
17. Stir in cheese, and add cream. Stir until ingredients are combined.
18. Pour the hot stew into a 9-inch-by-13-inch pan or a 3-quart baking dish.
19. Top with 2-tablespoon chunks of scone dough, and brush the top of the dough with extra cream.
20. Bake on a lipped baking sheet for 30–45 minutes, or until biscuits are golden, and stew is bubbling.
21. Serve immediately.
Adapted from “Bubby’s Homemade Pies” by Ron Silver and Jen Bervin