Pink Sips

Like linen suits and Panama hats, rosé wines come into season over the Memorial Day weekend. Their straightforward duties have always been to be prettily tinted, well-chilled, and zingy. That said, increasing interest in rosés has begotten what Stephen Bitterolf, wine director of Crush Wine Company (crushwineco.com), calls a “creative rosé class” — sippers that go beyond “delicate simple fruits and easygoing balance.”